Author: M.W. DingemansPublisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages :
Book Description
Water wave propagation over uneven bottoms. Part 2.: Non-linear wave propagation
Author: M.W. DingemansWater Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms
Author: Maarten W. DingemansPublisher:
ISBN: 9789810204273
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 471
Book Description
Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms (In 2 Parts)
Author: Maarten W DingemansPublisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9814506583
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 1015
Book Description
The primary objective of this book is to provide a review of techniques available for the problems of wave propagation in regions with uneven beds as they are encountered in coastal areas. The view taken is that the techniques should be useful for application in advisory practice. However, effort is put into a precise definition of the underlying physical principles, so that the validity of the methods used can be evaluated. Both linear and nonlinear wave propagation techniques are discussed. Because of its length, the book comes in two parts: Part 1 covers primarily linear wave propagation, and Part 2 covers nonlinear wave propagation.
Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms
Author: Maarten W. DingemansPublisher: World Scientific Publishing Company Incorporated
ISBN: 9789810204266
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 471
Book Description
The primary objective of this book is to provide a review of techniques available for the problems of wave propagation in regions with uneven beds as they are encountered in coastal areas. The view taken is that the techniques should be useful for application in advisory practice. However, effort is put into a precise definition of the underlying physical principles, so that the validity of the methods used can be evaluated. Both linear and nonlinear wave propagation techniques are discussed. Because of its length, the book comes in two parts, part 1 covering primarily linear wave propagation, and part 2 covering on nonlinear wave propagation.
Non-linear Wave Propagation
Author: Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms: Linear wave propagation
Author: Maarten W. DingemansPublisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9789810239947
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 508
Book Description
Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms: Linear wave propagation
Author: Maarten W. DingemansPublisher: World Scientific Publishing Company
ISBN: 9789810239930
Category : Coast changes
Languages : en
Pages : 967
Book Description
Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms
Author: James Thornton KirbyPublisher:
ISBN:
Category : Diffraction
Languages : en
Pages : 102
Book Description
In Part I of this report, a time dependent form of the reduced wave equation of Berkhoff is developed for the case of water waves propagating over a bed consisting of ripples superimposed on an otherwise slowly varying mean depth which satisfies the mild slope assumption. The ripples are assumed to have wavelengths on the order of the surface wave length but amplitudes which scale as a small parameter along with the bottom slope. The theory is verified by showing that it reduces to the case of plane waves propagating over a non-dimensional, infinite patch of sinusoidal ripples, studied recently by Davis and Heathershaw and Mei. We then study two cases of interest--formulation and use of the coupled parabolic equations for propagation over patches of arbitrary form in order to study wave reflection, and propagation of trapped waves along an infinite ripple patch. In the second part, we use the results of Part 1 to extend the results for weakly-nonlinear wave propagation to the case of partial reflection from bottoms with mild-sloping mean depth with superposed small amplitude undulations. Keywords include: Combined refraction-diffraction, Linear Surface Waves, Shallow and intermediate water depths, and Wave reflection.
Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves (In 2 Parts)
Author: Chiang C MeiPublisher: World Scientific Publishing Company
ISBN: 981436570X
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 1135
Book Description
This book is an expanded version of The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are applied, such as singular perturbations. In this expanded version, three chapters on recent developments have been added. The first is on multiple scattering by periodic or random bathymetry. The second is on Zakharov's theory of nonlinear wave fields with broad spectra. The third is an extensive discussion of powerful numerical techniques for highly nonlinear waves. Other new topics include infragravity waves, upstream solitons, Venice storm gates, etc. In addition, there are many new exercises.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.
Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering
Author: Philip L. F. LiuPublisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9810233108
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 263
Book Description
This volume consists of five excellent review papers. In the first paper, ?A Review of Coastal Wave Modeling: The Physical and Mathematical Problems?, N E Huang presents a summary of the state-of-the-art of wave modeling in deep waters. He points out several shortcomings in existing modeling approaches and expresses the urgent need for developing a statistical theory of surface waves in shallow waters. Huang believes that the statistical theory can be formulated as the soliton turbulence. He also points out other important issues in wave modeling, including the air-sea interaction processes, and the physics of the wave-current and dissipation processes. In the second paper A C Radder focuses his discussion on the ?Hamiltonian Dynamics of Water Waves?. He demonstrates that the Hamiltonian theory of surface waves can be formulated in terms of surface elevation and the velocity potential at the free surface as canonical variables. Several evolution equations, can be readily obtained. Radder also points out the need to develop a stochastic wave model in the shallow-water environment.The maximum runup is arguably the single most important parameter in the design of coastal structures and for the evaluation of the inundation potential of storm surges and tsunamis. C E Synolakis presents a thorough review of the ?Exact Solutions of Shallow-Water Wave Equations?. For a single sloping beach, the evolution and runup of solitary, dipole, N and cnoidal waves are discussed. These solutions are then extended to more practical problems.The last two papers concern the flow and sediment motions near the seafloor. In their paper, ?Boundary Layer and Sediment Dynamics Under Sea Waves?, P Blondeaux and G Vittori give an expert review of the recent contributions on the understanding of the interaction of the coherent vortex with cohesionless or partially cohesive sediments in a boundary layer. The formation and development of small-scale bedforms in the coastal regions are also discussed. Finally, in ?Wave Scour Around Structures?, B M Sumer and J Freds?e review the scouring processes around various types of structures. Many recent experimental data and theoretical developments are presented.