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Author: James Kaihatu Publisher: ISBN: Category : Languages : en Pages : 17
Book Description
The choice of a particular wave model for use in nearshore wave climate forecasting or hindcasting is usually contingent upon the site to be considered and the processes to be modeled. Phase averaged spectral models such as SWAN, WAM or STWAVE are source based energy models which treat the wave field as a stochastic phenomenon. This particular formulation allows for the consideration of wind wave generation, among other source terms. These models (particularly STWAVE and SWAN) are able to simulate irregular wave propagation over coastal areas relatively efficiently; however, the propagation terms in these models are derived from ray theory and do not handle bathymetrically induced diffraction, which may be important in coastal areas. (It should be noted that STWAVE does not contain some accounting for diffraction as a diffusion of wave energy in the source terms). Phase resolving models such as REF/DIF1, REF/DIF-S and RCPWAVE by contrast, treat the wave field deterministically, tracing the free surface evolution over the domain. The irregular nature of the wave field can be accounted for by running several wave frequencies/directions through the model and calculating the statistics from the model results. This is often done by discretizing an input spectrum into frequency and direction bins, calculating the waveheight in each bin and then running them through the model. This formulation is most useful in the case of complex bathymetry and predominantly swell like conditions. Models in this latter class cannot account for wind wave generation.
Author: James Kaihatu Publisher: ISBN: Category : Languages : en Pages : 17
Book Description
The choice of a particular wave model for use in nearshore wave climate forecasting or hindcasting is usually contingent upon the site to be considered and the processes to be modeled. Phase averaged spectral models such as SWAN, WAM or STWAVE are source based energy models which treat the wave field as a stochastic phenomenon. This particular formulation allows for the consideration of wind wave generation, among other source terms. These models (particularly STWAVE and SWAN) are able to simulate irregular wave propagation over coastal areas relatively efficiently; however, the propagation terms in these models are derived from ray theory and do not handle bathymetrically induced diffraction, which may be important in coastal areas. (It should be noted that STWAVE does not contain some accounting for diffraction as a diffusion of wave energy in the source terms). Phase resolving models such as REF/DIF1, REF/DIF-S and RCPWAVE by contrast, treat the wave field deterministically, tracing the free surface evolution over the domain. The irregular nature of the wave field can be accounted for by running several wave frequencies/directions through the model and calculating the statistics from the model results. This is often done by discretizing an input spectrum into frequency and direction bins, calculating the waveheight in each bin and then running them through the model. This formulation is most useful in the case of complex bathymetry and predominantly swell like conditions. Models in this latter class cannot account for wind wave generation.
Author: Pablo Higuera Publisher: World Scientific ISBN: 981126547X Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 208
Book Description
This unique compendium introduces the field of numerical modelling of water waves. The topics included the most widely used water wave modelling approaches, presented in increasing order of complexity and categorized into phase-averaged and phase-resolving at the highest level.A comprehensive state-of-the-art review is provided for each chapter, comprising the historical development of the method, the most relevant models and their practical applications. A full description on the method's underlying assumptions and limitations are also provided. The final chapter features coupling among different models, outlining the different types of implementations, highlighting their pros and cons, and providing numerous relevant examples for full context.The useful reference text benefits professionals, researchers, academics, graduate and undergraduate students in wave mechanics in general and coastal and ocean engineering in particular.
Author: Publisher: ISBN: Category : Languages : en Pages : 0
Book Description
Ocean wave propagation is heavily affected by bathymetric variation, particularly in the nearshore areas. In this report, the theoretical basis behind the mild slope equation, which is often used for modeling wave propagation, is discussed. In particular, the theory and technical details of the models REF/DIF1, REF/DIF-S, and RCPWAVE are defined. (REF/DIF-S is an irregular wave version of REF/DIF1.) Two different modifications of the mild slope equation that simplify the modeling of wave propagation for general areas: the parabolic approximation, which is used in the model REF/DIF1 and REF/DIF-S; and the eikonal-transport equations, used in RCPWAVE are examined. The consequences of using either modification is also discussed. Incorporation of relevant physical effects (e.g., wave breaking, bottom friction, etc.) that affect wave propagation in the nearshore area is illustrated.
Author: W. Rogers Publisher: ISBN: Category : Languages : en Pages : 108
Book Description
This report details the validation of the numerical wave models REF/DEF1 and REF/DIF-S. The monochromatic model REF/DIF1 is used to test most model physics, while the irregular wave model REF/DIF-S is used to investigate model applicability to realistic situations. Comparisons of the models to available analytical solutions, synthetic cases, and laboratory and field scenarios are performed. Where applicable, we also compare the two models to the wave model RCPWAVE, which is based on a different formulation. We find that the REF/DIF models are reasonably accurate in most of the situations tested. The REF/DIF models also outperform RCPWAVE in most of the instances where the models can be compared. In particular, it is found that the RCPWAVE model under predicts the effect of wave diffraction. Model robustness to bathymetric uncertainty is also tested. It is found that neither REF/DIF1 nor REF/DIF-S is overly sensitive to bathymetric uncertainty. In areas where the diffraction effect is large, the REF/DIF-S model tends to have more robust characteristics than the monochromatic model, due primarily to its irregular nature. Details of the modified spectral input program used in this study appear in the appendix.
Author: W. E. Rogers Publisher: ISBN: 9781423565499 Category : Languages : en Pages : 108
Book Description
This report details the validation of the numerical wave models REF/ DEF1 and REF/DIF-S. The monochromatic model REF/DIF1 is used to test most model physics, while the irregular wave model REF/DIF-S is used to investigate model applicability to realistic situations. Comparisons of the models to available analytical solutions, synthetic cases, and laboratory and field scenarios are performed. Where applicable, we also compare the two models to the wave model RCPWAVE, which is based on a different formulation. We find that the REF/DIF models are reasonably accurate in most of the situations tested. The REF/DIF models also outperform RCPWAVE in most of the instances where the models can be compared. In particular, it is found that the RCPWAVE model under predicts the effect of wave diffraction. Model robustness to bathymetric uncertainty is also tested. It is found that neither REF/DIF1 nor REF/DIF-S is overly sensitive to bathymetric uncertainty. In areas where the diffraction effect is large, the REF/DIF-S model tends to have more robust characteristics than the monochromatic model, due primarily to its irregular nature. Details of the modified spectral input program used in this study appear in the appendix.
Author: David M Kelly Publisher: CRC Press ISBN: 1351119532 Category : Technology & Engineering Languages : en Pages : 260
Book Description
This book will serve as a reference guide, and state-of-the-art review, for the wide spectrum of numerical models and computational techniques available to solve some of the most challenging problems in coastal engineering. The topics covered in this book, are explained fundamentally from a numerical perspective and also include practical examples applications. Important classic themes such as wave generation, propagation and breaking, turbulence modelling and sediment transport are complemented by hot topics such as fluid and structure interaction or multi-body interaction to provide an integral overview on numerical techniques for coastal engineering. Through the vision of 10 high impact authors, each an expert in one or more of the fields included in this work, the chapters offer a broad perspective providing several different approaches, which the readers can compare critically to select the most suitable for their needs. Advanced Numerical Modelling of Wave Structure Interaction will be useful for a wide audience, including PhD students, research scientists, numerical model developers and coastal engineering consultants alike.
Author: Jianhua Tao Publisher: Springer ISBN: 9789811528408 Category : Technology & Engineering Languages : en Pages : 484
Book Description
This book discusses the numerical simulation of water waves, which combines mathematical theories and modern techniques of numerical simulation to solve the problems associated with waves in coastal, ocean, and environmental engineering. Bridging the gap between practical mathematics and engineering, the book describes wave mechanics, establishment of mathematical wave models, modern numerical simulation techniques, and applications of numerical models in engineering. It also explores environmental issues related to water waves in coastal regions, such as pollutant and sediment transport, and introduces numerical wave flumes and wave basins. The material is self-contained, with numerous illustrations and tables, and most of the mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text. The book is intended for researchers, graduate students and engineers in the fields of hydraulic, coastal, ocean and environmental engineering with a background in fluid mechanics and numerical simulation methods.
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen Publisher: Cambridge University Press ISBN: 1139462520 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 9
Book Description
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Author: James Kaihatu
Author: James Kaihatu
Author: Pablo Higuera
Author: Wei Chen
Author: 
Author: W. Rogers
Author: W. E. Rogers
Author: David M Kelly
Author: Jianhua Tao
Author: Matt Malej
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen