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Author: Carl M. Bennett Publisher: ISBN: Category : Ocean waves Languages : en Pages : 102
Book Description
An introductory discussion of the mathematics behind the directional analysis of ocean waves is presented. There is sufficient detail for a reader interested in applying the methods; further, the report can serve as an entry into the theory. The presentation is basically tutorial but does require a reasonably advanced mathematical background. Results of a program for the measurement of directional ocean wave bottom pressure spectra are included as an appendix. This second edition makes corrections to the first and adds some details of an iterative directional analysis method. (Author).
Author: Carl M. Bennett Publisher: ISBN: Category : Ocean waves Languages : en Pages : 102
Book Description
An introductory discussion of the mathematics behind the directional analysis of ocean waves is presented. There is sufficient detail for a reader interested in applying the methods; further, the report can serve as an entry into the theory. The presentation is basically tutorial but does require a reasonably advanced mathematical background. Results of a program for the measurement of directional ocean wave bottom pressure spectra are included as an appendix. This second edition makes corrections to the first and adds some details of an iterative directional analysis method. (Author).
Author: Philip L. F. Liu Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company Incorporated ISBN: 9789810218249 Category : Technology & Engineering Languages : en Pages : 315
Book Description
Most of the Earth's surface is covered by water. Many aspects of our everyday lives and activities may be affected by water waves in some way. Sometimes, the waves can cause disaster. One of the examples was the tsunami that occurred in the Indian Ocean on 26 December 2004. This indicates how important it is for us to fully understand water waves, in particular the very large ones. One way to do so is to perform numerical simulation based on the nonlinear theory. Considerable research advances have been made in this area over the past decade by developing various numerical methods and applying them to emerging problems: however, until now there has been no comprehensive book to reflect these advances. This unique volume aims to bridge this gap.
Author: Dean Gordon Sedivy Publisher: ISBN: Category : Ocean waves Languages : en Pages : 196
Book Description
A computerized method for the identification of wave groups and determination of their properties from digital wave data was developed. Analysis was performed on 208 Southern California wave records. It was found that the number of waves in a group is independent of both the spectral peak period and the variance of the wave record. However, the amount of energy contained in wave groups relative to that in the record increases as the total energy of the record increases. Also, average group periods of greater than the spectral peak period are not uncommon. Both an increase in group energy relative to the wave record and also the number of waves in a group increase the possibility of obtaining an extreme wave height in a group relative to the significant wave height of the record. Finally, it is apparent that as the average group period approaches the spectral peak period of a record, all other highly dependent wave group properties take on their maximum values. (Author).
Author: F. Dobson Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media ISBN: 1461591821 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 797
Book Description
During the past decade, man's centuries-old interest in marine me teorology and oceanography has broadened. Ocean and atmosphere are now treated as coupled parts of one system; the resulting interest in air-sea interaction problems has led to a rapid growth in the sophistication of instruments and measurement techniques. This book has been designed as a reference text which describes, albng with the instruments themselves, the accumulated practical experi ence of experts engaged in field observations of air-sea interac tions. It is meant to supplement rather than replace manuals on standard routine observations or instnunentation handbooks. At the inception a textbook was planned, which would contain only well tested methods and instruments. It was quickly discovered that for the book to be useful many devices and techniques would have to be included which are still evolving rapidly. The reader is therefore cautioned to take nothing in these pages for granted. Certainly, every contributor is an expert, but while some are back ed up by generations of published work, others are pioneers. The choice of topics, of course, is debatable. The types of observa tions included are not exhaustive and topics such as marine aero sols and radio-tracers are omitted, as was the general subject of remote sensing, which was felt to be too broad and evol ving too rapidly. The guideline adopted in limiting size was maximum use fulness to 'a trained experimentalist new to the field'.
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen Publisher: Cambridge University Press ISBN: 1139462520 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 9
Book Description
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel Publisher: World Scientific ISBN: 9789810221096 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 514
Book Description
This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
Author: I.R. Young Publisher: Elsevier ISBN: 0080543804 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 307
Book Description
The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably.This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.
Author: Peter Janssen Publisher: Cambridge University Press ISBN: 0521465400 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 310
Book Description
This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Author: Robert G Dean Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company ISBN: 9814365696 Category : Technology & Engineering Languages : en Pages : 369
Book Description
This book is intended as an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student. The material is self-contained; almost all mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text, thus making the book accessible to practicing engineers as well.The book commences with a review of fluid mechanics and basic vector concepts. The formulation and solution of the governing boundary value problem for small amplitude waves are developed and the kinematic and pressure fields for short and long waves are explored. The transformation of waves due to variations in depth and their interactions with structures are derived. Wavemaker theories and the statistics of ocean waves are reviewed. The application of the water particle motions and pressure fields are applied to the calculation of wave forces on small and large objects. Extension of the linear theory results to several nonlinear wave properties is presented. Each chapter concludes with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes extending the material presented in the chapter. An appendix provides a description of nine experiments which can be performed, with little additional equipment, in most wave tank facilities.
Author: Carl M. Bennett
Author: Carl M. Bennett
Author: Philip L. F. Liu
Author: Dean Gordon Sedivy
Author: Michel K. Ochi
Author: F. Dobson
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Author: I.R. Young
Author: Peter Janssen
Author: Robert G Dean