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Author: M. C. Shen Publisher: ISBN: Category : Ocean waves Languages : en Pages : 84
Book Description
The motion of water on a uniformly sloping beach, just after a bore reaches the shore, is studied. The shllow-water equations are used to fomulate a singular hyperbolic problem, which is solved by the help of RIEMANN'S Method and of the trutural theory of quasilinear hyperbolic equations developed in gas dynmics. The shore line is found to advance suddenly with non-zero velocity and then to move up and down the beach with constant, negative acceleration. The solution s shown to contain limit lines indiating a rather unexpeted, secondary bore in the back-wsh. (Author).
Author: M. C. Shen Publisher: ISBN: Category : Ocean waves Languages : en Pages : 84
Book Description
The motion of water on a uniformly sloping beach, just after a bore reaches the shore, is studied. The shllow-water equations are used to fomulate a singular hyperbolic problem, which is solved by the help of RIEMANN'S Method and of the trutural theory of quasilinear hyperbolic equations developed in gas dynmics. The shore line is found to advance suddenly with non-zero velocity and then to move up and down the beach with constant, negative acceleration. The solution s shown to contain limit lines indiating a rather unexpeted, secondary bore in the back-wsh. (Author).
Author: Philip L. F. Liu Publisher: World Scientific ISBN: 9789810238599 Category : Technology & Engineering Languages : en Pages : 346
Book Description
In the last two decades, one of the most important research accomplishments in coastal hydrodynamics has been the development of accurate numerical models for nonlinear water wave propagation over a complex bathymetry from a relatively deep-water depth into the surf zone. This book contains five excellent papers reviewing different methodologies in various aspects of wave modeling; the authors are active researchers who have made original contributions to these subjects.
Author: Philip L-f Liu Publisher: World Scientific ISBN: 9814495026 Category : Technology & Engineering Languages : en Pages : 338
Book Description
In the last two decades, one of the most important research accomplishments in coastal hydrodynamics has been the development of accurate numerical models for nonlinear water wave propagation over a complex bathymetry from a relatively deep-water depth into the surf zone. This book contains five excellent papers reviewing different methodologies in various aspects of wave modeling; the authors are active researchers who have made original contributions to these subjects.
Author: Philip N. Stoa Publisher: ISBN: Category : Breakwaters Languages : en Pages : 140
Book Description
Example problems and methods of data analysis, together with general observations, are given. Smooth-slope runup results for both breaking and nonbreaking waves are presented in a set of curves similar to but revised from those in the Shore Protection Manual (SPM) (U.S. Army, Corps of Engineerings, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 1977). The curves are for structure slopes fronted by horizontal and 1 on 10 bottom slopes. The range of values of d sub s/H' sub o was extended to d sub s/H' sub o = 8; relative depth (d sub s/H' sub o) is important even for d sub s/H' sub o> 3 for waves which do not break on the structure slope. Rough-slope results are presented in similar curves if sufficient data were available. Otherwise, results are given as values of r, which is the ratio of rough-slope runup to smooth-slope runup. Scale-effect in runup is discussed.
Author: Patrick Lynett Publisher: World Scientific ISBN: 9812709045 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 314
Book Description
In September 2006, research leaders in the field of coastal engineering, fluid mechanics, and wave theory met at Cornell University to celebrate the 60th birthday of Prof. Philip L-F Liu. This volume is a compilation of the research papers presented at the symposium, and includes both review and new research papers. Topics such as nonlinear wave theory, tsunamis, wave-structure interaction, turbulence, and modeling of complex sediment transport are discussed in this volume. All of the contributing authors are research collaborators of Prof. Liu, and include leaders in coastal engineering such as Maarten Dingemans, Hwung-Hweng Hwung, Nobu Kobayashi, Inigo Losada, Hocine Oumeraci, Costas Synolakis, and Harry Yeh.
Author: M. C. Shen
Author: M. C. Shen
Author: Philip L. F. Liu
Author: Philip L-f Liu
Author: Philip N. Stoa
Author: Patrick Lynett
Author: John P. Ahrens
Author: Jeffrey A. Melby
Author: Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.)
Author: 
Author: United States. Army. Corps of Engineers. Philadelphia District