Author: Parke-Bernet Galleries
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Art
Languages : en
Pages : 64
Book Description
Catalogues of Sales
Author: Parke-Bernet Galleries
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Art
Languages : en
Pages : 64
Book Description
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Art
Languages : en
Pages : 64
Book Description
Jewels by JAR
Author: Adrian Sassoon
Publisher: Metropolitan Museum of Art
ISBN: 1588395316
Category : Antiques & Collectibles
Languages : en
Pages : 147
Book Description
Called "the Fabergé of our time" by Diane von Furstenberg, Joel A. Rosenthal, who works in Paris under the name JAR, is one of the most acclaimed jewellery designers of the past thirty years. JAR is known for his use of precious and semi-precious stones resplendent with myriad shades of vibrant colour and set in organic shapes: one brooch, for instance, features lifelike petals in subtly differentiated hues, made from a thousand pavé sapphires and amethysts. The New York Times has described his jewellery as "belligerent, stubborn, audacious, funny, contradictory", while JAR himself has characterised his work as "somewhere between geometry and a bouquet of flowers". This book, featuring nearly 70 pieces from throughout JAR's career, provides a concise, accessible, elegantly designed retrospective of the best of his jewellery creations, and is the only book of its kind on his work available in English.
Publisher: Metropolitan Museum of Art
ISBN: 1588395316
Category : Antiques & Collectibles
Languages : en
Pages : 147
Book Description
Called "the Fabergé of our time" by Diane von Furstenberg, Joel A. Rosenthal, who works in Paris under the name JAR, is one of the most acclaimed jewellery designers of the past thirty years. JAR is known for his use of precious and semi-precious stones resplendent with myriad shades of vibrant colour and set in organic shapes: one brooch, for instance, features lifelike petals in subtly differentiated hues, made from a thousand pavé sapphires and amethysts. The New York Times has described his jewellery as "belligerent, stubborn, audacious, funny, contradictory", while JAR himself has characterised his work as "somewhere between geometry and a bouquet of flowers". This book, featuring nearly 70 pieces from throughout JAR's career, provides a concise, accessible, elegantly designed retrospective of the best of his jewellery creations, and is the only book of its kind on his work available in English.
Illustrated Guide to Jewelry Appraising
Author: Anna M. Miller
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
ISBN: 146159717X
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 184
Book Description
There is more to appraising jewelry than just being parable sales and a value determination. Then, all this able to put a dollar value on an item. The title of ap information, with clear jewelry descriptions, must be praiser distinguishes the individual who is able to iden succinctly put together with photographs and deliv tify, witness, estimate status, excellence, or potential ered to the client. ity, and to determine the authenticity of an article. Today's jewelry appraiser should also be cognizant Many factors impact on a thorough appraisal, espe of the vicissitudes of fashion, how changes impact the cially on estate and period jewelry. jewelry market in a substantial and vital manner in both design and style. A careful look must be given to Developing all this expertise is a lot to ask of practi tioners who only a decade ago were barely making a study of color psychology with an awareness of why specific gemstones and their colors and enamels of cer distinction between a well-written sales receipt and a professional appraisal report. tain colors were used in different periods. Industrial In the past few years bold changes have taken place developments, from machine stamped jewelry, the use in this field. It is now understood that standard ap of aniline dyes in clothing, and development of the praisal concepts and principles can be applied to the electric light, have influenced design and use of gem stones.
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
ISBN: 146159717X
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 184
Book Description
There is more to appraising jewelry than just being parable sales and a value determination. Then, all this able to put a dollar value on an item. The title of ap information, with clear jewelry descriptions, must be praiser distinguishes the individual who is able to iden succinctly put together with photographs and deliv tify, witness, estimate status, excellence, or potential ered to the client. ity, and to determine the authenticity of an article. Today's jewelry appraiser should also be cognizant Many factors impact on a thorough appraisal, espe of the vicissitudes of fashion, how changes impact the cially on estate and period jewelry. jewelry market in a substantial and vital manner in both design and style. A careful look must be given to Developing all this expertise is a lot to ask of practi tioners who only a decade ago were barely making a study of color psychology with an awareness of why specific gemstones and their colors and enamels of cer distinction between a well-written sales receipt and a professional appraisal report. tain colors were used in different periods. Industrial In the past few years bold changes have taken place developments, from machine stamped jewelry, the use in this field. It is now understood that standard ap of aniline dyes in clothing, and development of the praisal concepts and principles can be applied to the electric light, have influenced design and use of gem stones.
If These Jewels Could Talk
Author: Beth Bernstein
Publisher: Antique Collector's Club
ISBN: 9781851498079
Category : Antiques & Collectibles
Languages : en
Pages : 0
Book Description
Throughout the 20th century, jewellery revealed the behind-the-scenes stories and the plot twists and turns in the real lives of celebrities that will always be larger than life. Some of the world's most fabulous jewels not only illustrated power and status in society but these magical gems held tremendous sentimental value as they were linked to the most significant moments and memories of Hollywood royalty, international aristocracy and international icons of style. If These Jewels Could Talk offers a glimpse into the jewellery boxes of these celebrities - the personal tastes, heartfelt anecdotes and the true tales of the women who wore and collected the pieces. During the early- to mid-20th century, a majority of screen actresses requested to wear their own favourite pieces in films. This offered a peek into some the great jewellers of the time who were designing for women who could choose anything. Actresses such as Merle Oberon, Paulette Goddard, Joan Crawford, Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor as well as icons such as Jackie Kennedy and The Duchess of Windsor created signature styles for which they became known and which influenced generations of women, becoming part of our collective consciousness. The 20s through the 50s were a time when the renowned jewellery houses were also celebrities in their own right. They mixed with the socialites and royalty they bejewelled. In films, jewellery clearly developed and defined a character's personality - as it did in real life - whether it be a rags-to-riches story or those that figured into the plot: for example, a Cartier bracelet in Alfred Hitchcock's Lifeboat, or a Harry Winston necklace in Notorious. Whether on or off screen, worn by the famed and the legendary, and designed by the most revered houses of the day, all of these jewels take us on a narrative journey that provide fascinating insight into the intriguing worlds of early Hollywood and nobility from the 1920s through today.
Publisher: Antique Collector's Club
ISBN: 9781851498079
Category : Antiques & Collectibles
Languages : en
Pages : 0
Book Description
Throughout the 20th century, jewellery revealed the behind-the-scenes stories and the plot twists and turns in the real lives of celebrities that will always be larger than life. Some of the world's most fabulous jewels not only illustrated power and status in society but these magical gems held tremendous sentimental value as they were linked to the most significant moments and memories of Hollywood royalty, international aristocracy and international icons of style. If These Jewels Could Talk offers a glimpse into the jewellery boxes of these celebrities - the personal tastes, heartfelt anecdotes and the true tales of the women who wore and collected the pieces. During the early- to mid-20th century, a majority of screen actresses requested to wear their own favourite pieces in films. This offered a peek into some the great jewellers of the time who were designing for women who could choose anything. Actresses such as Merle Oberon, Paulette Goddard, Joan Crawford, Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor as well as icons such as Jackie Kennedy and The Duchess of Windsor created signature styles for which they became known and which influenced generations of women, becoming part of our collective consciousness. The 20s through the 50s were a time when the renowned jewellery houses were also celebrities in their own right. They mixed with the socialites and royalty they bejewelled. In films, jewellery clearly developed and defined a character's personality - as it did in real life - whether it be a rags-to-riches story or those that figured into the plot: for example, a Cartier bracelet in Alfred Hitchcock's Lifeboat, or a Harry Winston necklace in Notorious. Whether on or off screen, worn by the famed and the legendary, and designed by the most revered houses of the day, all of these jewels take us on a narrative journey that provide fascinating insight into the intriguing worlds of early Hollywood and nobility from the 1920s through today.
To Boldly Grow
Author: Tamar Haspel
Publisher: National Geographic Books
ISBN: 0593419537
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 0
Book Description
A love-letter to the unexpected delights (and occasional despair) of so-called “first-hand food”—meals we grow, forage, fish, or even hunt from the world around us. To Boldly Grow is “part memoir, part how-to guide and wholly delightful” (Washington Post). Journalist and self-proclaimed “crappy gardener” Tamar Haspel is on a mission: to show us that raising or gathering our own food is not as hard as it’s often made out to be. When she and her husband move from Manhattan to two acres on Cape Cod, they decide to adopt a more active approach to their diet: raising chickens, growing tomatoes, even foraging for mushrooms and hunting their own meat. They have more ambition than practical know-how, but that’s not about to stop them from trying…even if sometimes their reach exceeds their (often muddy) grasp. With “first-hand food” as her guiding principle, Haspel embarks on a grand experiment to stop relying on experts to teach her the ropes (after all, they can make anything grow), and start using her own ingenuity and creativity. Some of her experiments are a rousing success (refining her own sea salt). Others are a spectacular failure (the turkey plucker engineered from an old washing machine). Filled with practical tips and hard-won wisdom, To Boldly Grow allows us to journey alongside Haspel as she goes from cluelessness to competence, learning to scrounge dinner from the landscape around her and discovering that a direct connection to what we eat can utterly change the way we think about our food--and ourselves.
Publisher: National Geographic Books
ISBN: 0593419537
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 0
Book Description
A love-letter to the unexpected delights (and occasional despair) of so-called “first-hand food”—meals we grow, forage, fish, or even hunt from the world around us. To Boldly Grow is “part memoir, part how-to guide and wholly delightful” (Washington Post). Journalist and self-proclaimed “crappy gardener” Tamar Haspel is on a mission: to show us that raising or gathering our own food is not as hard as it’s often made out to be. When she and her husband move from Manhattan to two acres on Cape Cod, they decide to adopt a more active approach to their diet: raising chickens, growing tomatoes, even foraging for mushrooms and hunting their own meat. They have more ambition than practical know-how, but that’s not about to stop them from trying…even if sometimes their reach exceeds their (often muddy) grasp. With “first-hand food” as her guiding principle, Haspel embarks on a grand experiment to stop relying on experts to teach her the ropes (after all, they can make anything grow), and start using her own ingenuity and creativity. Some of her experiments are a rousing success (refining her own sea salt). Others are a spectacular failure (the turkey plucker engineered from an old washing machine). Filled with practical tips and hard-won wisdom, To Boldly Grow allows us to journey alongside Haspel as she goes from cluelessness to competence, learning to scrounge dinner from the landscape around her and discovering that a direct connection to what we eat can utterly change the way we think about our food--and ourselves.
Elizabeth Taylor: My Love Affair with Jewelry
Author: Elizabeth Taylor
Publisher: Simon & Schuster
ISBN: 9780743236645
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 240
Book Description
Profiles the film star's collection of jewelry, providing descriptions of her most noteworthy pieces and describing their representation of particular relationships and events in her life.
Publisher: Simon & Schuster
ISBN: 9780743236645
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 240
Book Description
Profiles the film star's collection of jewelry, providing descriptions of her most noteworthy pieces and describing their representation of particular relationships and events in her life.
Faceting History: Cutting Diamonds and Colored Stones
Author: Glenn Klein
Publisher: Xlibris Corporation
ISBN: 1599260824
Category : Design
Languages : en
Pages : 244
Book Description
The author of, "Faceting History: Cutting Diamonds and Colored Stones" has for a long time had a deep interest in learning how the early faceters (cutters) of diamonds and colored gemstones were able to complete their work. What methods did they use? What equipment did they have to make success possible? How soon did they discover how to complete the many phases necessary to accomplish their work? How did the equipment and methods differ between fashioning diamonds and faceting colored stones? These are just a few of the questions that the author wanted to find the answers for. In looking for answers to these and other questions, the author found that there were bits and pieces of information available in many previous books, but there was not a good book available that would answer most of his questions. Upon hearing the author's remarks about this fact, one of the librarians at the wonderful library located at the Gemological Institute of America's Carlsbad campus said that if such a book was not available, "maybe you should write the book!" Well, the author had been thinking of doing just that, but the remark caused the author to see the light and agree to get started on the project. Little did he know then that the project would require many months of eight hour days over seven day weeks to get the book completed. He decided to write a book that would answer these and other related questions that he had. The thought also occurred to him that such a book would be a valuable volume to be placed in libraries of individual faceters around the world. He realized that such a book would also be of great value to anyone who works behind a Jewelry store counter. A successful sales person isone who is knowledgeable about the products that they are selling. A book of faceting information would be extremely valuable if read and re-read from time to time. A customer in the Jewelry store will no doubt be favorably impressed by a sales presentation that is made with the use of interesting and informative information about diamonds and the various colored gemstones. The customer will be convinced that the sales person knows about what they are talking. The author has spent nearly three years on the project of researching the GIA library and other libraries, along with the extensive personal library of gemstone related books that he personally possesses. Many conflicting reports were noted in his study. He has made the statements in his book reflect the most commonly accepted opinions, of the most respected authors' works that he has found in his research. History is only obtainable from the earlier works of other authors. We cannot go back to the long past centuries ourselves, to see first hand what really happened and when it happened. A study of faceting history requires making the best choices of the information that is available. This completed book answers questions as to why the fashioning of diamonds was/is so different from the faceting of colored gemstones. The book compares the needed equipment and the methods that have brought the greatest successes. In addition, a great deal of other information connected to faceting is included. There are seven chapters in the book and there are over 125 photographs of the early equipment and methods that were used. The photographs show the faceters, the workroom conditions, and the tools and equipment that they used to completebeautiful and lasting gemstones. The book chapters are titled: An Introduction to Faceting, Early Man's Stone Appreciation, Diamond Fashioning Procedure and Equipment, Colored Stone Faceting Procedure and Equipment, The Evolution of Cut Designs, Famous and Historic Gemstones, Sources of Diamond and Colored Stone Rough, and lastly, Advances in Faceting Over the Past One Hundred Years. Within each of these chapters the reader will find a multitude of additional and interesting information. Chapter One: Early Faceting Inform
Publisher: Xlibris Corporation
ISBN: 1599260824
Category : Design
Languages : en
Pages : 244
Book Description
The author of, "Faceting History: Cutting Diamonds and Colored Stones" has for a long time had a deep interest in learning how the early faceters (cutters) of diamonds and colored gemstones were able to complete their work. What methods did they use? What equipment did they have to make success possible? How soon did they discover how to complete the many phases necessary to accomplish their work? How did the equipment and methods differ between fashioning diamonds and faceting colored stones? These are just a few of the questions that the author wanted to find the answers for. In looking for answers to these and other questions, the author found that there were bits and pieces of information available in many previous books, but there was not a good book available that would answer most of his questions. Upon hearing the author's remarks about this fact, one of the librarians at the wonderful library located at the Gemological Institute of America's Carlsbad campus said that if such a book was not available, "maybe you should write the book!" Well, the author had been thinking of doing just that, but the remark caused the author to see the light and agree to get started on the project. Little did he know then that the project would require many months of eight hour days over seven day weeks to get the book completed. He decided to write a book that would answer these and other related questions that he had. The thought also occurred to him that such a book would be a valuable volume to be placed in libraries of individual faceters around the world. He realized that such a book would also be of great value to anyone who works behind a Jewelry store counter. A successful sales person isone who is knowledgeable about the products that they are selling. A book of faceting information would be extremely valuable if read and re-read from time to time. A customer in the Jewelry store will no doubt be favorably impressed by a sales presentation that is made with the use of interesting and informative information about diamonds and the various colored gemstones. The customer will be convinced that the sales person knows about what they are talking. The author has spent nearly three years on the project of researching the GIA library and other libraries, along with the extensive personal library of gemstone related books that he personally possesses. Many conflicting reports were noted in his study. He has made the statements in his book reflect the most commonly accepted opinions, of the most respected authors' works that he has found in his research. History is only obtainable from the earlier works of other authors. We cannot go back to the long past centuries ourselves, to see first hand what really happened and when it happened. A study of faceting history requires making the best choices of the information that is available. This completed book answers questions as to why the fashioning of diamonds was/is so different from the faceting of colored gemstones. The book compares the needed equipment and the methods that have brought the greatest successes. In addition, a great deal of other information connected to faceting is included. There are seven chapters in the book and there are over 125 photographs of the early equipment and methods that were used. The photographs show the faceters, the workroom conditions, and the tools and equipment that they used to completebeautiful and lasting gemstones. The book chapters are titled: An Introduction to Faceting, Early Man's Stone Appreciation, Diamond Fashioning Procedure and Equipment, Colored Stone Faceting Procedure and Equipment, The Evolution of Cut Designs, Famous and Historic Gemstones, Sources of Diamond and Colored Stone Rough, and lastly, Advances in Faceting Over the Past One Hundred Years. Within each of these chapters the reader will find a multitude of additional and interesting information. Chapter One: Early Faceting Inform
The Nature of Diamonds
Author: George E. Harlow
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 9780521629355
Category : Nature
Languages : en
Pages : 294
Book Description
The paragon of physical perfection and a sparkling example of Earth's forces at work, the diamond has fascinated all realms of society, from Russian tsars and Hollywood stars to scientists and brides-to-be. The Nature of Diamonds is an authoritative and richly illustrated look at nature's most coveted gem. Leading geologists, gemologists, physicists, and cultural observers cover every facet of the stone, from its formation in the depths of the Earth and its explosive ascent to the surface, to its economic, regal, social, and technological roles. The book takes the reader to cutting-edge research on the frontiers of diamond exploration and exploitation, from Arctic wastes to laboratories that create industrial diamonds for cutting tools that slice through rock. Charting the history of mining from its origins in India and Brazil, the book follows the diamond rush in South Africa to today's high-tech enterprises. It provides a glimpse into the economics of the diamond trade, and an overview of diamond cutting, from the rough uncut stones in early Indian and Roman jewelry to the multifaceted stones we see today. The cultural history of the diamond as both a revered and a social symbol is explored, from its early history as the exclusive property of royalty to today's brilliant-laden jewelry as an emblem of wealth and status. The engaging text is complemented by more than 200 lavish illustrations which span fine art, earth science, and cultural studies and capture the brilliance and beauty of this extraordinary gem.
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 9780521629355
Category : Nature
Languages : en
Pages : 294
Book Description
The paragon of physical perfection and a sparkling example of Earth's forces at work, the diamond has fascinated all realms of society, from Russian tsars and Hollywood stars to scientists and brides-to-be. The Nature of Diamonds is an authoritative and richly illustrated look at nature's most coveted gem. Leading geologists, gemologists, physicists, and cultural observers cover every facet of the stone, from its formation in the depths of the Earth and its explosive ascent to the surface, to its economic, regal, social, and technological roles. The book takes the reader to cutting-edge research on the frontiers of diamond exploration and exploitation, from Arctic wastes to laboratories that create industrial diamonds for cutting tools that slice through rock. Charting the history of mining from its origins in India and Brazil, the book follows the diamond rush in South Africa to today's high-tech enterprises. It provides a glimpse into the economics of the diamond trade, and an overview of diamond cutting, from the rough uncut stones in early Indian and Roman jewelry to the multifaceted stones we see today. The cultural history of the diamond as both a revered and a social symbol is explored, from its early history as the exclusive property of royalty to today's brilliant-laden jewelry as an emblem of wealth and status. The engaging text is complemented by more than 200 lavish illustrations which span fine art, earth science, and cultural studies and capture the brilliance and beauty of this extraordinary gem.
Art as Jewellery
Author: Louisa Guinness
Publisher: Antique Collector's Club
ISBN: 9781851498703
Category : Artist-designed jewelry
Languages : en
Pages : 335
Book Description
"The women in Man Ray's life, as well as his reverence for the female form more broadly, were reflected in his jewellery. He kept the wearer in mind with each piece; never impractical or obtrusive, his jewels played with illusion, language and form as he employed the medium to further explore the artistic preoccupations of his career." Art as Jewellery is a visually stunning introduction to jewellery made by the titans of twentieth and twenty-first century art. From Salvador Dali, Man Ray, Alexander Calder and Pablo Picasso, through to Anish Kapoor, Damien Hirst and Grayson Perry, the great figures of modern art have all turned both thought and talent to jewellery. Often, they have eschewed the traditional jeweller's preoccupation with material value and provenance, more concerned with the conceptual or aesthetic significance of their work. As is fitting for a book that covers a range of artists, every image is as striking as it is unique. By using contemporary pictures, Art as Jewellery develops a chronological timeline of jewellery presentation. Its pages are home to a stunning variety of design sketches and photographs. Some were shot by renowned 20th century photographers, such as Ugo Mulas and Antonia Mulas, while others have been buried in archives for decades, unseen since the '60s. In contrast, modern works have been given model treatment by top photographer Alexander English, making this book a glamorous blend of new and classic jewellery art. AUTHOR: Author Louisa Guinness, collector and gallery owner, provides insightful commentary on each artist and their work. Her input can be felt on a personal level; having worked alongside many of these artists as they developed their jewellery, she is in the perfect position to reveal the personal stories behind these pieces creation. Full-page colour photographs and sketches, some showing the artist at work in the studio, or with their muse, accompany each profile. Louisa also explores each artist in the context of the genre's evolution, looking at the key exhibitions that have shaped the interest of artists and collectors. This book will be of interest to jewellery and art lovers alike. SELLING POINTS: * Includes an introduction by Vivienne Becker, an award-winning jewellery writer, and a contribution from Julia Peyton Jones, previous director of the Serpentine Gallery, London * A marvellous array of images, from archived photographs and sketches that have not been seen since the '60s, and the work of 20th-century photographers such as Ugo Mulas and Antonia Mulas, to modern shoots by Alexander English 200 colour images
Publisher: Antique Collector's Club
ISBN: 9781851498703
Category : Artist-designed jewelry
Languages : en
Pages : 335
Book Description
"The women in Man Ray's life, as well as his reverence for the female form more broadly, were reflected in his jewellery. He kept the wearer in mind with each piece; never impractical or obtrusive, his jewels played with illusion, language and form as he employed the medium to further explore the artistic preoccupations of his career." Art as Jewellery is a visually stunning introduction to jewellery made by the titans of twentieth and twenty-first century art. From Salvador Dali, Man Ray, Alexander Calder and Pablo Picasso, through to Anish Kapoor, Damien Hirst and Grayson Perry, the great figures of modern art have all turned both thought and talent to jewellery. Often, they have eschewed the traditional jeweller's preoccupation with material value and provenance, more concerned with the conceptual or aesthetic significance of their work. As is fitting for a book that covers a range of artists, every image is as striking as it is unique. By using contemporary pictures, Art as Jewellery develops a chronological timeline of jewellery presentation. Its pages are home to a stunning variety of design sketches and photographs. Some were shot by renowned 20th century photographers, such as Ugo Mulas and Antonia Mulas, while others have been buried in archives for decades, unseen since the '60s. In contrast, modern works have been given model treatment by top photographer Alexander English, making this book a glamorous blend of new and classic jewellery art. AUTHOR: Author Louisa Guinness, collector and gallery owner, provides insightful commentary on each artist and their work. Her input can be felt on a personal level; having worked alongside many of these artists as they developed their jewellery, she is in the perfect position to reveal the personal stories behind these pieces creation. Full-page colour photographs and sketches, some showing the artist at work in the studio, or with their muse, accompany each profile. Louisa also explores each artist in the context of the genre's evolution, looking at the key exhibitions that have shaped the interest of artists and collectors. This book will be of interest to jewellery and art lovers alike. SELLING POINTS: * Includes an introduction by Vivienne Becker, an award-winning jewellery writer, and a contribution from Julia Peyton Jones, previous director of the Serpentine Gallery, London * A marvellous array of images, from archived photographs and sketches that have not been seen since the '60s, and the work of 20th-century photographers such as Ugo Mulas and Antonia Mulas, to modern shoots by Alexander English 200 colour images
Louis Comfort Tiffany At Tiffany & Co.
Author: John Loring
Publisher: Harry N. Abrams
ISBN: 9780810932883
Category : Antiques & Collectibles
Languages : en
Pages : 0
Book Description
Louis Comfort Tiffany at Tiffany & Co. chronicles the younger Tiffany's enduring imprint on the internationally renowned jeweler and purveyor of luxury goods.".
Publisher: Harry N. Abrams
ISBN: 9780810932883
Category : Antiques & Collectibles
Languages : en
Pages : 0
Book Description
Louis Comfort Tiffany at Tiffany & Co. chronicles the younger Tiffany's enduring imprint on the internationally renowned jeweler and purveyor of luxury goods.".