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Author: Heidi Brevik-Zender Publisher: University of Toronto Press ISBN: 1442669810 Category : Art Languages : en Pages : 376
Book Description
In Fashioning Spaces, Heidi Brevik-Zender argues that in the years between 1870 and 1900 the chroniclers of Parisian modernity depicted the urban landscape not just in public settings such as boulevards and parks but also in “dislocations,” spaces where the public and the intimate overlapped in provocative and subversive ways. Stairwells, theatre foyers, dressmakers’ studios, and dressing rooms were in-between places that have long been overlooked but were actually marked as indisputably modern through their connections with high fashion. Fashioning Spaces engages with and thinks beyond the work of critics Charles Baudelaire and Walter Benjamin to arrive at new readings of the French capital. Examining literature by Zola, Maupassant, Rachilde, and others, as well as paintings, architecture, and the fashionable garments worn by both men and women, Brevik-Zender crafts a compelling and innovative account of how fashion was appropriated as a way of writing about the complexities of modernity in fin-de-siècle Paris.
Author: Heidi Brevik-Zender Publisher: University of Toronto Press ISBN: 1442669810 Category : Art Languages : en Pages : 376
Book Description
In Fashioning Spaces, Heidi Brevik-Zender argues that in the years between 1870 and 1900 the chroniclers of Parisian modernity depicted the urban landscape not just in public settings such as boulevards and parks but also in “dislocations,” spaces where the public and the intimate overlapped in provocative and subversive ways. Stairwells, theatre foyers, dressmakers’ studios, and dressing rooms were in-between places that have long been overlooked but were actually marked as indisputably modern through their connections with high fashion. Fashioning Spaces engages with and thinks beyond the work of critics Charles Baudelaire and Walter Benjamin to arrive at new readings of the French capital. Examining literature by Zola, Maupassant, Rachilde, and others, as well as paintings, architecture, and the fashionable garments worn by both men and women, Brevik-Zender crafts a compelling and innovative account of how fashion was appropriated as a way of writing about the complexities of modernity in fin-de-siècle Paris.
Author: Katherine Appleford Publisher: Routledge ISBN: 1351856464 Category : History Languages : en Pages : 300
Book Description
Drawing together theoretical ideas from across the social sciences, Classifying Fashion, Fashioning Class examines how the fashion-class association has developed and, using the experiences of middle-and-working class British women, demonstrates how this relationship operates today. Though increasingly academics argue that contemporary class distinctions are made through cultural practices and tastes, few have fully explored just how individual’s fashion choices mobilise class and are used in class evaluations. Yet, an individual’s everyday dress is perhaps the most immediate marker of taste, and thus an important means of class distinction. This is particularly true for women, as their performances of respectability, femininity and motherhood are embodied by fashion and shaped by class. In unpacking this fashion-class relationship, the book explores how fashion is used by British women to talk about class. It offers important insights into the ways fashion mobilises class differences in understandings of dressing up, performance and public space. It considers how class identity shapes women’s attitudes concerning fashion trends and classic styles, and it draws attention to the pivotal role mothers play in cultivating these class distinctions. The book will be of interest to students in sociology, fashion studies, cultural studies, human geography and consumer behaviour.
Author: Lauren S. Cardon Publisher: University of Virginia Press ISBN: 0813945909 Category : Literary Criticism Languages : en Pages : 335
Book Description
It’s often said that we are what we wear. Tracing an American trajectory in fashion, Lauren Cardon shows how we become what we wear. Over the twentieth century, the American fashion industry diverged from its roots in Paris, expanding and attempting to reach as many consumers as possible. Fashion became a tool for social mobility. During the late twentieth century, the fashion industry offered something even more valuable to its consumers: the opportunity to explore and perform. The works Cardon examines—by Sylvia Plath, Jack Kerouac, Toni Morrison, Sherman Alexie, and Aleshia Brevard, among others—illustrate how American fashion, with its array of possibilities, has offered a vehicle for curating public personas. Characters explore a host of identities as fashion allows them to deepen their relationships with ethnic or cultural identity, to reject the social codes associated with economic privilege, or to forge connections with family and community. These temporary transformations, or performances, show that identity is a process constantly negotiated and questioned, never completely fixed.
Author: Agnès Rocamora Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing ISBN: 0857731130 Category : Design Languages : en Pages : 239
Book Description
While much attention has been paid to the making of Paris in the work of writers and artists, little is known about the city as defined and created by the fashion media. Filling this gap in studies of the French capital, this original and illuminating book focuses on how the French fashion press - with its rich conjunction of words and images - has been able to construct Paris as a leading world fashion city.Based in an original analysis of fashion writing and images in contemporary French fashion magazines and newspapers, the book shows how the fashion media have been central to the consecration of the city of Paris on the fashion map, as well as its celebration in the collective imaginary. Agnes Rocamora explores, for example, the figures of 'la Parisienne' and 'la passante' (the female passer by), and the presence of the Eiffel tower in fashion visuals. She gives attention to the continuum between the French journalistic discourse and that of cultural forms such as films, paintings and literature, thus revealing the persistence across texts and time of visions of Paris and shedding light on the production and reproduction of the Paris myth.
Author: Nicholas De Monchaux Publisher: MIT Press ISBN: 026201520X Category : Design Languages : en Pages : 379
Book Description
How the twenty-one-layer Apollo spacesuit, made by Playtex, was a triumph of intimacy over engineering. When Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin stepped onto the lunar surface in July of 1969, they wore spacesuits made by Playtex: twenty-one layers of fabric, each with a distinct yet interrelated function, custom-sewn for them by seamstresses whose usual work was fashioning bras and girdles. This book is the story of that spacesuit. It is a story of the triumph over the military-industrial complex by the International Latex Corporation, best known by its consumer brand of "Playtex"—a victory of elegant softness over engineered hardness, of adaptation over cybernetics. Playtex's spacesuit went up against hard armor-like spacesuits designed by military contractors and favored by NASA's engineers. It was only when those attempts failed—when traditional engineering firms could not integrate the body into mission requirements—that Playtex, with its intimate expertise, got the job. In Spacesuit, Nicholas de Monchaux tells the story of the twenty-one-layer spacesuit in twenty-one chapters addressing twenty-one topics relevant to the suit, the body, and the technology of the twentieth century. He touches, among other things, on eighteenth-century androids, Christian Dior's New Look, Atlas missiles, cybernetics and cyborgs, latex, JFK's carefully cultivated image, the CBS lunar broadcast soundstage, NASA's Mission Control, and the applications of Apollo-style engineering to city planning. The twenty-one-layer spacesuit, de Monchaux argues, offers an object lesson. It tells us about redundancy and interdependence and about the distinctions between natural and man-made complexity; it teaches us to know the virtues of adaptation and to see the future as a set of possibilities rather than a scripted scenario.
Author: Elizabeth L. Block Publisher: MIT Press ISBN: 0262049058 Category : Design Languages : en Pages : 246
Book Description
From the award-winning author of Dressing Up, a riveting and diverse history of women’s hair that reestablishes the cultural power of hairdressing in nineteenth-century America. In the nineteenth century, the complex cultural meaning of hair was not only significant, but it could also impact one’s place in society. After the Civil War, hairdressing was also a growing profession and the hair industry a mainstay of local, national, and international commerce. In Beyond Vanity, Elizabeth Block expands the nascent field of hair studies by restoring women’s hair as a cultural site of meaning in the early United States. With a special focus on the places and spaces in which the hair industry operated, Block argues that the importance of hair has been overlooked due to its ephemerality as well as its misguided association with frivolity and triviality. As Block clarifies, hairdressing was anything but frivolous. Using methods of visual and material culture studies informed by concepts of cultural geography, Block identifies multiple substantive categories of place and space within which hair acted. These include the preparatory places of the bedroom, hair salon, and enslaved peoples’ quarters, as well as the presentation places of parties, fairs, stages, and workplaces. Here are also the untold stories of business owners, many of whom were women of color, and the creators of trendsetting styles like the pompadour and Gibson Girl bouffant. Block’s ground-breaking study examines how race and racism affected who participated in the presentation and business of hair, and according to which standards. The result of looking closely at the places and spaces of hair is a reconfiguration that allows a new understanding of the cultural power of hair in the period.
Author: Gerald Egan Publisher: Springer ISBN: 113751826X Category : Literary Criticism Languages : en Pages : 242
Book Description
One view of the author in eighteenth- and nineteenth-century Britain held that poetic genius could reside in the lady or gentleman of fashion. Fashioning Authorship in the Long Eighteenth Century examines this cultural trope of genius-as-fashionista by applying an innovative mix of approaches—book history, Enlightenment and twentieth-century philosophy, visual studies, and material analyses of fashions in books and in dress—to specific editions of Alexander Pope, Mary Robinson and Lord Byron. In its material analyses of these books, Fashioning Authorship looks closely at bindings, letterforms, engravings, newspaper advertisements, correspondence, and other ephemera. In its theoretical approaches, it takes up the interventions of Locke and Kant in connection with the visual theories of Richardson, Hogarth, and Reynolds. These investigations point ultimately to a profound connection between Enlightenment formulations of subjectivity, genius, and fashion, a link that is relevant to the construction of celebrity in our own cultural moment.
Author: Denise Amy Baxter Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing ISBN: 1350114073 Category : History Languages : en Pages : 545
Book Description
During the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries the production of dress shifted dramatically from being predominantly hand-crafted in small quantities to machine-manufactured in bulk. The increasing democratization of appearances made new fashions more widely available, but at the same time made the need to differentiate social rank seem more pressing. In this age of empire, the coding of class, gender and race was frequently negotiated through dress in complex ways, from fashionable dress which restricted or exaggerated the female body to liberating reform dress, from self-defining black dandies to the oppressions and resistances of slave dress. Richly illustrated with over 100 images and drawing on a plethora of visual, textual and object sources, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Empire presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.
Author: Elisa Silva Publisher: Actar D, Inc. ISBN: 163840917X Category : Architecture Languages : en Pages : 277
Book Description
This book may seem a simple accumulation of twenty-one public space projects in eight Latin American cities. On closer inspection, the presentation of project descriptions, photographs, and annotated drawings reflects a concern to analytically explain the operative aspects at work. The publication is not intended to serve only as a catalogue, guide, or manual on how to produce public space in spontaneous settlements. Rather, it goes beyond the aims of an index of best practices. It is intended, instead, as an empirical base for a critical and theoretical engagement with the problematic of development, social inclusion, public investment, (in)formal settlement, civil society and the public sphere. The publication achieves its final function at this third level, by providing a compelling argument to expand the agency of architects and urban designers and creatively find ways of justifying, financing, and building public spaces in communities —spaces that have a catalytic effectiveness in achieving significant urban and social transformation. This book was awarded by a Graham Foundation Grant and CAF Development Bank of Latin America. FEATURED CASE STUDIES: CONSERVATION 72 Linear parks along the Estero Salado | Guayaquil, Ecuador 80 National Park Babil.nia and Chap.u Mangueira | R.o de Janeiro, Brasil 88 Urban agriculture along the Rimac River | Lima, Peru WASTE MANAGEMENT 96 Moravia Ecological Park | Medellin, Colombia 104 Plaza La Cruz, La Palomera | Caracas, Venezuela RISKMANAGEMENT 112 El Guasmo Beach, floodable park | Guayaquil, Ecuador 120 Safety plazas in Santa Mar.a El Triunfo | Lima, Peru 128 Recovery of the Juan Bobo Creek | Medellin, Colombia INFRASTRUCTURE 136 Northeast metrocable parks Comuna 1, La Popular | Medell.n, Colombia 144 Barrio Las Independencias escalators and walkways | Medellin, Colombia 152 Funicular in Dona Marta | Rio de Janeiro, Brazil 160 Complexo do Alem.o | Rio de Janeiro, Brazil 168 Ecotecnia Urbana Miravalle | Mexico City, Mexico PAVEMENT, PATHS AND THE SPACE SURROUNDING BUILDINGS 176 Pavement, paths and stairs Cerro Santo Doming and Cerro Toro | Valpara.so, Chile 184 Cerro Santa Ana urban rehabilitation | Guayaquil, Ecuador 192 Fernando Botero Library | Medellin, Colombia 200 Moravia Cultural Center | Medellin, Colombia 208 Espa.o Crian.a and community programs | Rio de Janeiro, Brazil 216 Plaza in Villa Tranquila | Buenos Aires, Argentina ACTIVITY 224 Casa Kolacho Comuna 13 | Medellin, Colombia 232 AfroReggae Cultural Center | Rio de Janeiro, Brazil 240 Alto Per. | Lima, Peru 248 El Calvario Puertas Abiertas | Caracas, Venezuela
Author: Cecilia Brioni Publisher: Manchester University Press ISBN: 1526161990 Category : History Languages : en Pages : 180
Book Description
Fashioning Italian youth examines popular media representations of Italian young people’s style trends and bodily practices from 1958–75. By looking at visual and written representations of transnational youth trends – like urlatori, amici, beats and hippies – in Italian teen magazines, Musicarelli films and youth-oriented television programmes, it investigates changes in the social construction of Italian young people’s political, generational, national, ethnic and gender identities. The monograph connects the emergence of youth-oriented transnational trends to the national and global history of young people, and explores the dynamics that contributed to the construction of a specifically Italian youth culture in this period.
Author: Heidi Brevik-Zender
Author: Heidi Brevik-Zender
Author: Katherine Appleford
Author: Lauren S. Cardon
Author: Agnès Rocamora
Author: Nicholas De Monchaux
Author: Elizabeth L. Block
Author: Gerald Egan
Author: Denise Amy Baxter
Author: Elisa Silva
Author: Cecilia Brioni