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Author: Kimball Taylor Publisher: Dimdim Pub ISBN: 9780976538103 Category : Sports & Recreation Languages : en Pages : 144
Book Description
From the big-wave surfers of Tahiti and the salty hurricane chasers of New England, to the cliffs of Molokais infamous leper colony and the Wild Coast of South Africas Transkei Homeland, Return by Water brings light to surfers lives around the world with amazing sense of place and deft character portraits of the famous, ordinary and irascible surfer alike. Follow surf journalist Kimball Taylor on his travels through South Africa, Ecuador, Brazil, Mexico, Hawaii, French Polynesia, Indonesia and more. The journey is as transforming and definitive as any surfers first trip away from home.
Author: Kimball Taylor Publisher: Dimdim Pub ISBN: 9780976538103 Category : Sports & Recreation Languages : en Pages : 144
Book Description
From the big-wave surfers of Tahiti and the salty hurricane chasers of New England, to the cliffs of Molokais infamous leper colony and the Wild Coast of South Africas Transkei Homeland, Return by Water brings light to surfers lives around the world with amazing sense of place and deft character portraits of the famous, ordinary and irascible surfer alike. Follow surf journalist Kimball Taylor on his travels through South Africa, Ecuador, Brazil, Mexico, Hawaii, French Polynesia, Indonesia and more. The journey is as transforming and definitive as any surfers first trip away from home.
Author: Jacqueline Potter Publisher: ISBN: 9780972834902 Category : Literary Collections Languages : en Pages : 204
Book Description
A book of 2-Minute Retreats to escape the turmoil and trouble of our times. Also has non-fiction stories about author's pioneer grandmother and author's childhood years at her grandparents' farm on Spring River in the 1930s and 40s with ten of grandmother's heirloom recipes. Includes Discussion Guide for Reading Groups.
Author: William Finnegan Publisher: Penguin ISBN: 0143109391 Category : Biography & Autobiography Languages : en Pages : 466
Book Description
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Author: Tony Butt Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers ISBN: 9780906720899 Category : Sports & Recreation Languages : en Pages : 140
Book Description
Have you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don’t, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. Surf Science is also a useful introduction to oceanography and the science of waves. You don’t need a scientific background to read it – just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
Author: Publisher: ISBN: Category : Languages : en Pages : 116
Book Description
FIELD & STREAM, America’s largest outdoor sports magazine, celebrates the outdoor experience with great stories, compelling photography, and sound advice while honoring the traditions hunters and fishermen have passed down for generations.
Author: Publisher: ISBN: Category : Languages : en Pages : 180
Book Description
FIELD & STREAM, America’s largest outdoor sports magazine, celebrates the outdoor experience with great stories, compelling photography, and sound advice while honoring the traditions hunters and fishermen have passed down for generations.
Author: Publisher: ISBN: Category : Languages : en Pages : 180
Book Description
FIELD & STREAM, America’s largest outdoor sports magazine, celebrates the outdoor experience with great stories, compelling photography, and sound advice while honoring the traditions hunters and fishermen have passed down for generations.
Author: Publisher: ISBN: Category : Languages : en Pages : 176
Book Description
FIELD & STREAM, America’s largest outdoor sports magazine, celebrates the outdoor experience with great stories, compelling photography, and sound advice while honoring the traditions hunters and fishermen have passed down for generations.
Author: Kimball Taylor
Author: Kimball Taylor
Author: Jacqueline Potter
Author: William Finnegan
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Author: Tony Butt
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