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Author: Publisher: ISBN: Category : Languages : en Pages : 120
Book Description
Beaches and barrier islands are vulnerable to extreme storm events, such as hurricanes, that can cause severe erosion and overwash to the system. Having dunes and a wide beach in front of coastal infrastructure can provide protection during a storm, but the influence that nearshore bathymetric features have in protecting the beach and barrier island system is not completely understood. The spatial variation in nearshore features, such as sand bars and beach cusps, can alter nearshore hydrodynamics, including wave setup and runup. The influence of bathymetric features on long-wave runup can be used in evaluating the vulnerability of coastal regions to erosion and dune overtopping, evaluating the changing morphology, and implementing plans to protect infrastructure. In this thesis, long-wave runup variation due to changing bathymetric features as determined with the numerical model XBeach is quantified (eXtreme Beach behavior model). Wave heights are analyzed to determine the energy through the surfzone. XBeach assumes that coastal erosion at the land-sea interface is dominated by bound long-wave processes. Several hydrodynamic conditions are used to force the numerical model. The XBeach simulation results suggest that bathymetric irregularity induces significant changes in the extreme long-wave runup at the beach and the energy indicator through the surfzone.
Author: Publisher: ISBN: Category : Languages : en Pages : 120
Book Description
Beaches and barrier islands are vulnerable to extreme storm events, such as hurricanes, that can cause severe erosion and overwash to the system. Having dunes and a wide beach in front of coastal infrastructure can provide protection during a storm, but the influence that nearshore bathymetric features have in protecting the beach and barrier island system is not completely understood. The spatial variation in nearshore features, such as sand bars and beach cusps, can alter nearshore hydrodynamics, including wave setup and runup. The influence of bathymetric features on long-wave runup can be used in evaluating the vulnerability of coastal regions to erosion and dune overtopping, evaluating the changing morphology, and implementing plans to protect infrastructure. In this thesis, long-wave runup variation due to changing bathymetric features as determined with the numerical model XBeach is quantified (eXtreme Beach behavior model). Wave heights are analyzed to determine the energy through the surfzone. XBeach assumes that coastal erosion at the land-sea interface is dominated by bound long-wave processes. Several hydrodynamic conditions are used to force the numerical model. The XBeach simulation results suggest that bathymetric irregularity induces significant changes in the extreme long-wave runup at the beach and the energy indicator through the surfzone.
Author: Lauren M. Dunkin Publisher: ISBN: Category : Languages : en Pages :
Book Description
Beaches and barrier islands are vulnerable to extreme storm events, such as hurricanes, that can cause severe erosion and overwash to the system. Having dunes and a wide beach in front of coastal infrastructure can provide protection during a storm, but the influence that nearshore bathymetric features have in protecting the beach and barrier island system is not completely understood. The spatial variation in nearshore features, such as sand bars and beach cusps, can alter nearshore hydrodynamics, including wave setup and runup. The influence of bathymetric features on long-wave runup can be used in evaluating the vulnerability of coastal regions to erosion and dune overtopping, evaluating the changing morphology, and implementing plans to protect infrastructure. In this thesis, long-wave runup variation due to changing bathymetric features as determined with the numerical model XBeach is quantified (eXtreme Beach behavior model). Wave heights are analyzed to determine the energy through the surfzone. XBeach assumes that coastal erosion at the land-sea interface is dominated by bound long-wave processes. Several hydrodynamic conditions are used to force the numerical model. The XBeach simulation results suggest that bathymetric irregularity induces significant changes in the extreme long-wave runup at the beach and the energy indicator through the surfzone.
Author: Scott D. Peak Publisher: ISBN: 9781423521761 Category : Languages : en Pages : 93
Book Description
Accurate predictions of nearshore wave conditions are critical to the success of military operations in the littoral environment. Although linear spectral-refraction theory is used by the main operational forecasting centers in the world for these predictions, owing to a lack of field studies its accuracy in regions of complex bathymetry such as steep shoals and submarine canyons is unknown. This study examines the accuracy of linear spectral- refraction theory in areas of complex nearshore bathymetry with three months of extensive wave data collected during the Nearshore Canyon Experiment (NCEX) held in the fall of 2003. The field site, off La Jolla California, is characterized by two submarine canyons that strongly affect the propagation of long period Pacific swell. Data from 7 directional waverider buoys, 17 bottom pressure recorders, and 12 pressure-velocity sensors, were examined and compared to predictions made by a high resolution spectral-refraction model. Analysis reveals large spatial variation in wave heights over the area especially in the vicinity of the canyon heads, where wave heights vary by as much as an order of magnitude over a few hundred meters. This extreme variation in wave conditions across the canyons is surprisingly well described by refraction theory with typical errors of nearshore wave height predictions of about 20 percent.
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen Publisher: Cambridge University Press ISBN: 1139462520 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 9
Book Description
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Author: James S. Latimer Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media ISBN: 146146126X Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 576
Book Description
The U.S. Ocean Commission Report identified the need for regional ecosystem assessments to support coastal and ocean management. These assessments must provide greater understanding of physical and biological dynamics than assessments at global and national scales can provide but transcend state and local interests. This need and timeliness is apparent for Long Island Sound, where a multi-state regional restoration program is underway for America’s most urbanized estuary. Synthesis of the Long Island Sound ecosystem is needed to integrate knowledge across disciplines and provide insight into understanding and managing pressing issues, such as non-point sources of pollution, coastal development, global climatic change, and invasive species. Currently, there is a need for a comprehensive volume that summarizes the ecological and environmental dynamics and status of Long Island Sound and its myriad ecosystems. It has been 30 years since a comprehensive summary of Long Island Sound was prepared and 50 years since the pioneering work of Gordon Riley. Major advances in estuarine science are providing new insights into these systems, and yet, the condition of many estuaries is in decline in the face of continuing coastal development. There is an opportunity to lay a foundation for integrative coastal observing systems that truly provide the foundation for improved decision-making. This book will provide a key reference of our scientific understanding for work performed over the past three decades and guide future research and monitoring in a dynamic urbanized estuary.
Author: Hirohiko Mori Publisher: Springer Nature ISBN: 3031351290 Category : Computers Languages : en Pages : 618
Book Description
This two-volume set LNCS 14015 - 14016 constitutes the thoroughly refereed proceedings of the thematic area Human Interface and the Management of Information, HIMI 2023, which was held as part of HCI International 2023 which took place in Copenhagen, Denmark, during July 23-28, 2023. A total of 1578 papers and 396 posters have been accepted for publication in the HCII 2023 proceedings from a total of 7472 submissions. The papers included in the HCII-HIMI volume set were organized in topical sections as follows: Part I: Information design and user experience; data visualization and big data; multimodal interaction; interacting with AI and intelligent systems; Part II: Service design; knowledge in eLearning and eEducation; supporting work and collaboration.
Author: M. Schwartz Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media ISBN: 1402038801 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 1243
Book Description
This new Encyclopedia of Coastal Science stands as the latest authoritative source in the field of coastal studies, making it the standard reference work for specialists and the interested lay person. Unique in its interdisciplinary approach. This Encyclopedia features contributions by 245 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and is abundantly illustrated with line-drawings and photographs. Not only does this volume offer an extensive number of entries, it also includes various appendices, an illustrated glossary of coastal morphology and extensive bibliographic listings.
Author: 
Author: 
Author: Lauren M. Dunkin
Author: Scott D. Peak
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen
Author: James S. Latimer
Author: 
Author: Hirohiko Mori
Author: Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.)
Author: M. Schwartz
Author: Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.)