The Soul of Surfing PDF Download

Author: Fred Hemmings
Publisher: Da Capo Press
ISBN: 9781560252054
Category : Photography
Languages : en
Pages : 151

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Book Description
A former champion surfer explores the culture and history of surfing, focusing on the sport's Hawaiian roots, and recalls his own long association with surfing

Author: John Engle
Publisher: McFarland
ISBN: 0786495219
Category : Performing Arts
Languages : en
Pages : 261

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Book Description
Surfing has fascinated filmmakers since Thomas Edison shot footage of Waikiki beachboys in 1906. Before the 1950s surf craze, surfing showed up in travelogues or as exotic background for studio features. The arrival of Gidget (1959) on the big screen swept the sport into popular culture, but surfer-filmmakers were already featuring the day's best surfers in self-narrated two-reelers. Hollywood and independent filmmakers have produced about three dozen surf films in the last half-century, including the frothy Beach Party movies, Point Break (1991) and Chasing Mavericks (2012). From Bud Browne's earliest efforts to The Endless Summer (1966), Riding Giants (2004) and today's brilliant videos, over 1,000 surfing movies have celebrated the stoke. This first full-length study of surf movies gives critical attention to hundreds of the most important films.

Author: Linda Chase
Publisher: Gibbs Smith
ISBN: 9781423601791
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 188

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Book Description
As the official counterculture sport of the 1960s, surfing was not just a sport but a lifestyle, one long, sun-drenched beach party with endless waves and music, as well as an unapologetically masculine culture. This notion has since been disproved by generations of amazing female surfers who have made an indelible mark on the sport. Surfing: Women of the Waves highlights some of these extraordinary women of surfing, from Linda Benson and Joyce Hoffman in the 1950s and 1960s to Layne Beachley, Sofia Mulanovich, Bethany Hamilton, and the great Lisa Andersen, four-time women's world champion. Today, women of all ages and skill levels have taken their place among the waves-longboarders, shortboarders, goofyfooters, hotdoggers, young girls, and surfer moms-these are the women of the waves!

Author: Sam Bleakley
Publisher: Leaping Hare Press
ISBN: 1782408967
Category : Sports & Recreation
Languages : en
Pages : 163

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Book Description
Mindful Thoughts for Surfers explores how meditative a life on the surfboard can be. These 25 insightful musings will inspire beginners and experts alike. The heightened attention in surfing and the meditative nature of water facilitate the perfect opportunity to practise mindfulness. Sam Bleakley is an international longboard champion and advocate for all forms of waveriding. With an interest in Buddhism and Taoism, he discusses: Blue mindfulness - identifying with the ocean The connection to nature ​Dropping the ego Embracing imperfection Responsibility and diversity The opportunity for play, beauty, and music Through these reflections, Sam explores how riding the waves is the ultimate meditation and offers an astute awareness of what the oceans tell us about our place in the natural world—if we would just listen. His illuminating meditations, each beautifully illustrated, make this book perfect for dipping into and offer a gentle gateway into life-affirmingawareness for everyone. If you like this you might also be interested in Mindful Thoughts for Runners . . .

Author: Matt Warshaw
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN: 9780156032513
Category : Reference
Languages : en
Pages : 820

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Book Description
With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.

Author: Mark Stranger
Publisher: Routledge
ISBN: 1351896830
Category : Social Science
Languages : en
Pages : 266

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Book Description
Surfing Life is a study of surfing and social change that also provides insights into other experience-based contemporary subcultures and the nature of the self and social formations in contemporary society. Making use of extensive empirical material to support innovative theoretical approaches to social change, this book offers an analysis of the relationship between embodied experience, culture and the economy. With its ground breaking theoretical contributions, and its foundation in an ethnographic study of surfing culture in locations across Australia, this volume will appeal not only to those interested in the social and cultural phenomenon of surfing, but also to anyone interested in the sociology of sport and leisure, the sociology of culture and consumption, risk-taking, subcultures and theories of contemporary social change.

Author: Nick Ford
Publisher: Taylor & Francis
ISBN: 9780415334334
Category : Social Science
Languages : en
Pages : 220

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Book Description
Drawing on popular surf culture, academic literature and the analytical tools of social theory, this is the first sustained commentary on the contemporary social and cultural meaning of surfing, exploring mind and body, emotions, and aesthetics.

Author: Bill Missett
Publisher: AuthorHouse
ISBN: 1491812877
Category : Body, Mind & Spirit
Languages : en
Pages : 581

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Book Description
This special edition of the "Soul Surfer Johnny" trilogy brings all three books together in one volume, with a special bonus chapter of 15 new stories. It includes the complete versions of "Soul Surfer Johnny," "Soul Surfer Johnny Returns," and "Soul Surfer Johnny Rips" intact and unabridged. Plus a new 12,000-word segment of new stories.

Author: Bethany Hamilton
Publisher: Simon and Schuster
ISBN: 147110950X
Category : Biography & Autobiography
Languages : en
Pages : 218

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Book Description
They say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins. How else could one explain the tremendous passion that drives her to surf? How else could one explain that nothing - not even the loss of her arm in a horrific shark attack - could come between her and the waves? That Halloween morning in Kauai, Hawaii Bethany responded to the shark's stealth with a calmness beyond belief. Pushing pain and panic aside, she immediately thought: 'Get to the beach...' Rushed to the hospital, where her father, Ted Hamilton, was about to undergo knee surgery, Bethany found herself taking his spot in the operating theatre. When the first thing Bethany wanted to know after surgery was 'When can I surf again?' it became clear that her unfaltering spirit and determination were part of a greater story - a tale of courage and faith that this modest and soft-spoken girl would come to share with the world.

Author: Bill Missett
Publisher: AuthorHouse
ISBN: 1477268588
Category : Travel
Languages : en
Pages : 213

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Book Description
In Bill Missetts final chapter of Soul Surfer Johnnys adventures, we are taken through the journeys of many thrill seeking travelers, as Johnny and his wife Mia finally move to Puerto permanently, and their adventure begins anew. He and Mia meet countless soul surfers who add ingredients to the secret recipe that eventually becomes an award winning course of life to be enjoyed by the two true lovers. As Johnny matures in his new home of Puerto Tranquilo, he learns to digest and learn from the stories of those who have been through what he is currently experiencing. Missett conveys all of the life lessons the couple soaks in during what can only be described as a rich life without riches. They build a popular restaurant, a beautiful home, and more importantly, a bucket list of friends and memories. The surf remains an important part of their lives, but in this final chapter, Johnny and Mia drop into a veritable Mexican Pipeline barrel, breathing in every detail. Luckily, a writer like Missett is able to bring us back through that barrel in magnificent detail. We get to know so many characters from the previous chapters as well as new names. Several members of the famous crowd of Puerto regulars get to add their input this time. Their stories are told in first person, adding a great feeling of unedited authenticity. Several of the local famosos reappear, and some of the Puerto Elders walk us through the life and times of the enigmatic surf town. Missett writes in such a way that informs, intrigues, and entertains. This is the most entertaining of his works and deserves a loud applause. To be intrigued, you must read the earlier Soul Surfer Johnny books. To be truly informed, everyone should read his earlier Awakening the Soul series. A favorite author of all who read his works, Missett put together a great collaboration of stories with Soul Surfer Johnny Rips. However, in all honesty, we all hope that Johnny has another wave to catch through Bill Missetts eyes. Thomas Wilson