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Author: Christopher Sladen Publisher: Ashgate Publishing ISBN: Category : Design Languages : en Pages : 160
Book Description
The innovative Utility cloth, clothing and footwear schemes were introduced between 1941 and 1943 as part of the Government's home front policy during the Second World War. The schemes aimed to make the best use of scarce materials, to free labour for the armed forces and munitions work and ensure a continuous supply of civilian clothes and shoes in the categories, sizes and qualities which people wanted. This fascinating study looks at why and how Utility schemes were set up and run by the Board of Trade, how they were received by manufacturers and retailer's, and what customers thought of Utility products. Drawing on original, unpublished sources The Conscription of Fashion reveals that although Utility schemes were little loved at the time and regarded by many as just one more example of wartime deprivation, the impact of Utility was widespread and beneficial: the tight control of raw materials and prices led to improvements in production and manufacturing standards in the retail industries and the price of clothing and cost of living index during the war period was kept down.
Author: Christopher Sladen Publisher: Ashgate Publishing ISBN: Category : Design Languages : en Pages : 160
Book Description
The innovative Utility cloth, clothing and footwear schemes were introduced between 1941 and 1943 as part of the Government's home front policy during the Second World War. The schemes aimed to make the best use of scarce materials, to free labour for the armed forces and munitions work and ensure a continuous supply of civilian clothes and shoes in the categories, sizes and qualities which people wanted. This fascinating study looks at why and how Utility schemes were set up and run by the Board of Trade, how they were received by manufacturers and retailer's, and what customers thought of Utility products. Drawing on original, unpublished sources The Conscription of Fashion reveals that although Utility schemes were little loved at the time and regarded by many as just one more example of wartime deprivation, the impact of Utility was widespread and beneficial: the tight control of raw materials and prices led to improvements in production and manufacturing standards in the retail industries and the price of clothing and cost of living index during the war period was kept down.
Author: Geraldine Howell Publisher: A&C Black ISBN: 0857854291 Category : Design Languages : en Pages : 265
Book Description
A comprehensive analysis of Second World War dress practice and appearance, this study places dress at the forefront of a complex series of cultural chain reactions. As lives were changed by the conditions of war, dress continued to reflect important visual narratives regarding class, gender and taste that would impact significantly on public consciousness of equality, fairness and morale. Using new archival and primary source evidence, Wartime Fashion clarifies how and why clothing was rationed, and repositions style and design during the war in relation to past expectations and ideas about clothes and fabrics. The book explores the impact of war on the dress and appearance of civilian women of all classes in the context of changing social and economic infrastructures created by the national emergency. The varied research elements combined in this book form a rounded and definitive account of the dress history of British women during the Second World War. This is essential reading for anyone with an active interest in the field, whether personal or professional.
Author: Julie Summers Publisher: Profile Books ISBN: 1782830979 Category : Design Languages : en Pages : 335
Book Description
In September 1939, just three weeks after the outbreak of war, Gladys Mason wrote briefly in her diary about events in Europe: 'Hitler watched German siege of Warsaw. City in flames.' And, she continued, 'Had my wedding dress fitted. Lovely.' For Gladys Mason, and for thousands of women throughout the long years of the war, fashion was not simply a distraction, but a necessity - and one they weren't going to give up easily. In the face of bombings, conscription, rationing and ludicrous bureaucracy, they maintained a sense of elegance and style with determination and often astonishing ingenuity. From the young woman who avoided the dreaded 'forces bloomers' by making knickers from military-issue silk maps, to Vogue's indomitable editor Audrey Withers, who balanced lobbying government on behalf of her readers with driving lorries for the war effort, Julie Summers weaves together stories from ordinary lives and high society to provide a unique picture of life during the Second World War. As a nation went into uniform and women took on traditional male roles, clothing and beauty began to reflect changing social attitudes. For the first time, fashion was influenced not only by Hollywood and high society but by the demands of industrial production and the pressing need to 'make-do-and-mend'. Beautifully illustrated and full of gorgeous detail, Fashion on the Ration lifts the veil on a fascinating era in British fashion.
Author: Olga Litvak Publisher: Indiana University Press ISBN: 0253000777 Category : History Languages : en Pages : 297
Book Description
"Olga Litvak has written a book of astonishing originality and intellectual force.... In vivid prose, she takes the reader on a journey through the Russian-Jewish literary imagination." -- Benjamin Nathans Russian Jews were first conscripted into the Imperial Russian army during the reign of Nicholas I in an effort to integrate them into the population of the Russian Empire. Conscripted minors were to serve, in practical terms, for life. Although this system was abandoned by his successor, the conscription experience remained traumatic in the popular memory and gave rise to a large and continuing literature that often depicted Jewish soldiers as heroes. This imaginative and intellectually ambitious book traces the conscription theme in novels and stories by some of the best-known Russian Jewish writers such as Osip Rabinovich, Judah-Leib Gordon, and Mendele Mokher Seforim, as well as by relatively unknown writers. Published with the generous support of the Koret Foundation.
Author: Christopher Breward Publisher: Oxford University Press, USA ISBN: 0192840304 Category : Art Languages : en Pages : 273
Book Description
This lively survey of 150 years of fashion covers everything from Haute Couture to the High Street. From Coco Chanel to Alexander McQueen, Breward explores fashion as a cultural phenomenon. Topics include fashion in film, the world of Vogue and advertising, and the use of fashion to create identity from the Flapper to the New Look, and Dandy to Punk.
Author: Denise N. Rall Publisher: ISBN: 9781783202942 Category : HEALTH & FITNESS Languages : en Pages : 204
Book Description
"Aside from the occasional nod to epaulettes or use of camouflage, war and fashion seem to be strange partners. Not so, argue the contributors to this book, who connect military industrial practices as well as military dress to textile and clothing in new ways. For instance, the book includes a series of commentaries on the impact of military dress in the airline industry, in illustrated wartime comics, and even considers today's muscled soldier's body as a new type of uniform. Elsewhere, the effects of conquest introduce a new set of postcolonial aesthetics as military and colonial regimes disrupt local textile production and garment making. In another chapter, it is argued that textiles and fashion are important because they reflect a core practice, one that bridges textile artists and designers in an expressive, creative, and deeply physical way to matters of cultural significance. And the book concludes by calling the very mode of 'military chic' into ethical question. The premier text to illustrate the impact of war on textiles, bodies, costume, art, and design, Fashion & War in Popular Culture will be warmly welcomed by scholars of fashion design and theory, historians of fashion, and those interested in theories of warfare and military science"--Publisher's website.
Author: Jennifer Ryan Publisher: Ballantine Books ISBN: 0593158857 Category : Fiction Languages : en Pages : 449
Book Description
Three plucky women lift the spirits of home-front brides in wartime Britain, where clothes rationing leaves little opportunity for pomp or celebration—even at weddings—in this heartwarming novel based on true events, from the bestselling author of The Chilbury Ladies’ Choir. After renowned fashion designer Cressida Westcott loses both her home and her design house in the London Blitz, she has nowhere to go but the family manor house she fled decades ago. Praying that her niece and nephew will be more hospitable than her brother had been, she arrives with nothing but the clothes she stands in, at a loss as to how to rebuild her business while staying in a quaint country village. Her niece, Violet Westcott, is thrilled that her famous aunt is coming to stay—the village has been interminably dull with all the men off fighting. But just as Cressida arrives, so does Violet’s conscription letter. It couldn’t have come at a worse time; how will she ever find a suitably aristocratic husband if she has to spend her days wearing a frumpy uniform and doing war work? Meanwhile, the local vicar’s daughter, Grace Carlisle, is trying in vain to repair her mother’s gown, her only chance of a white wedding. When Cressida Westcott appears at the local Sewing Circle meeting, Grace asks for her help—but Cressida has much more to teach the ladies than just simple sewing skills. Before long, Cressida’s spirit and ambition galvanizes the village group into action, and they find themselves mending wedding dresses not only for local brides, but for brides across the country. And as the women dedicate themselves to helping others celebrate love, they might even manage to find it for themselves.
Author: R. S. Koppen Publisher: Edinburgh University Press ISBN: 0748641564 Category : Literary Criticism Languages : en Pages : 192
Book Description
Virginia Woolf, Fashion and Literary Modernity places WoolfA's writing in the context of sartorial practice from the Victorian period to the 1930s, and theories of dress and fashion from Thomas Carlyle to Walter Benjamin, Wyndham Lewis and J.C. Flugel. Bringing together studies in fashion, body culture and modernism, the book explores the modern fascination with sartorial fashion as well as with clothes as objects, signs, things, and embodied practice.Fashion was deeply implicated with the nineteenth-century modern and remained in focus for the modernities that continued to be proclaimed in the early decades of the following century. Clothing connects with the modernist topoi of the threshold, the trace and the interface; it is the place where character becomes image and where relations between subject and object, organic and inorganic play themselves out in a series of encounters and ruptures. Clothes also facilitate explorations in modern materialism, for instance as informing surrealist attempts to think the materiality of things outside the system of commodities and their fetishisation. WoolfA's work as cultural analyst and writer of fiction provides illuminating illustrations of all of these aspects, "e;thinking through clothes"e; in representations of the present, investigations of the archives of the past, and projections for the future.Key Features: *Contributes new research to Woolf and Modernism studies*Explores the significance of textual representations of dress and sartorial fashion in modernist literature *Interdisciplinary approach which brings together studies of fashion, culture and literature*Adds a specific author focused analysis to current work on cultural embodiment and performance
Author: John M. Sacher Publisher: LSU Press ISBN: 0807176559 Category : History Languages : en Pages : 290
Book Description
Winner of the Jules and Frances Landry Award Finalist for the 2022 Gilder Lehrman Lincoln Prize In April 1862, the Confederacy faced a dire military situation. Its forces were badly outnumbered, the Union army was threatening on all sides, and the twelve-month enlistment period for original volunteers would soon expire. In response to these circumstances, the Confederate Congress passed the first national conscription law in United States history. This initiative touched off a struggle for healthy white male bodies—both for the army and on the home front, where they oversaw enslaved laborers and helped produce food and supplies for the front lines—that lasted till the end of the war. John M. Sacher’s history of Confederate conscription serves as the first comprehensive examination of the topic in nearly one hundred years, providing fresh insights into and drawing new conclusions about the southern draft program. Often summarily dismissed as a detested policy that violated states’ rights and forced nonslaveholders to fight for planters, the conscription law elicited strong responses from southerners wanting to devise the best way to guarantee what they perceived as shared sacrifice. Most who bristled at the compulsory draft did so believing it did not align with their vision of the Confederacy. As Sacher reveals, white southerners’ desire to protect their families, support their communities, and ensure the continuation of slavery shaped their reaction to conscription. For three years, Confederates tried to achieve victory on the battlefield while simultaneously promoting their vision of individual liberty for whites and states’ rights. While they failed in that quest, Sacher demonstrates that southerners’ response to the 1862 conscription law did not determine their commitment to the Confederate cause. Instead, the implementation of the draft spurred a debate about sacrifice—both physical and ideological—as the Confederacy’s insatiable demand for soldiers only grew in the face of a grueling war.
Author: Christopher Sladen
Author: Christopher Sladen
Author: Geraldine Howell
Author: Julie Summers
Author: Olga Litvak
Author: Christopher Breward
Author: Denise N. Rall
Author: Jennifer Ryan
Author: 
Author: R. S. Koppen
Author: John M. Sacher