Sartorial Practices and Social Order in Eighteenth-Century Sweden PDF Download
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Author: Mikael Alm Publisher: Routledge ISBN: 1000415503 Category : History Languages : en Pages : 250
Book Description
The interplay between clothes and social order in early modern societies is well known. Differences in dress and hierarchies of appearances coincided with and structured social hierarchies and notions of difference. However, clothes did not merely reproduce set social patterns. They were agents of change, actively used by individuals and groups to make claims and transgress formal boundaries. This was not least the case for the revolutionary decades of the late eighteenth century, the period in focus of this book. Unlike previous studies on sumptuary laws and other legal actions taken by governments and formal power holders, this book offers a broader and more everyday perspective on late eighteenth-century sartorial discourse. In 1773, there was a publicly announced prize competition on the advantages and disadvantages of a national dress in Sweden. Departing from the submitted replies, the study opens a window onto the sartorial world. Several fields of cultural history are brought together: social culture in terms of order, hierarchies, and notions of difference; sartorial culture with contemporary views on dress and moral aspects of sartorial practices; and visual culture in terms of sartorial means of making a difference and the emphasis on the necessity of a legible social order.
Author: Mikael Alm Publisher: Routledge ISBN: 1000415503 Category : History Languages : en Pages : 250
Book Description
The interplay between clothes and social order in early modern societies is well known. Differences in dress and hierarchies of appearances coincided with and structured social hierarchies and notions of difference. However, clothes did not merely reproduce set social patterns. They were agents of change, actively used by individuals and groups to make claims and transgress formal boundaries. This was not least the case for the revolutionary decades of the late eighteenth century, the period in focus of this book. Unlike previous studies on sumptuary laws and other legal actions taken by governments and formal power holders, this book offers a broader and more everyday perspective on late eighteenth-century sartorial discourse. In 1773, there was a publicly announced prize competition on the advantages and disadvantages of a national dress in Sweden. Departing from the submitted replies, the study opens a window onto the sartorial world. Several fields of cultural history are brought together: social culture in terms of order, hierarchies, and notions of difference; sartorial culture with contemporary views on dress and moral aspects of sartorial practices; and visual culture in terms of sartorial means of making a difference and the emphasis on the necessity of a legible social order.
Author: Simon Crompton Publisher: National Geographic Books ISBN: 0500021562 Category : Travel Languages : en Pages : 0
Book Description
An indispensable, informative, and portable insider’s companion to the most fashion-forward cities for well-dressed and worldly men. This essential travel guide distills a decade of style expert Simon Crompton’s experiences traveling the world to meet and advise the finest menswear producers and artisans—providing everything the modern man needs to know to travel in style and explaining what to buy and where to buy it. Offering insider knowledge on ten of the world’s most stylish cities, including Florence, New York, Stockholm, Paris, Tokyo, and Hong Kong, and detailing ten more cities full of emerging talents, each chapter contains listings of the finest shops and ateliers. In-depth profiles of standout tailors, clothiers, and shoemakers offer insights into the craftsmanship behind the trademark style of each city, from a traditional kimono maker in Japan to a bespoke umbrella shop in Paris. A section on sartorial travel tips offers advice from leading style aficionados, including Mark Cho of the Armoury and Mats Klingberg of Trunk Clothiers. The Sartorial Travel Guide includes maps to assist trip planning and practical advice on how and what to pack, readers will be prepared for any occasion. Whether on vacation or looking to fill a few spare hours on a business trip, this is the ideal guide for any sartorial adventure.
Author: Elizabeth Affuso Publisher: University of Michigan Press ISBN: 0472903381 Category : Social Science Languages : en Pages : 295
Book Description
In recent years, geeks have become chic, and the fashion and beauty industries have responded to this trend with a plethora of fashion-forward merchandise aimed at the increasingly lucrative fan demographic. This mainstreaming of fan identity is reflected in the glut of pop culture T-shirts lining the aisles of big box retailers as well as the proliferation of fan-focused lifestyle brands and digital retailers over the past decade. While fashion and beauty have long been integrated into the media industry with tie-in lines, franchise products, and other forms of merchandise, there has been limited study of fans’ relationship to these items and industries. Sartorial Fandom shines a spotlight on the fashion and beauty cultures that undergird fandoms, considering the retailers, branded products, and fan-made objects that serve as forms of identity expression. This collection is invested in the subcultural and mainstream expression of style and in the spaces where the two intersect. Fan culture is, in many respects, an optimal space to situate a study of style because fandom itself is often situated between the subcultural and the mainstream. Collectively, the chapters in this anthology explore how various axes of lived identity interact with a growing movement to consider fandom as a lifestyle category, ultimately contending that sartorial practices are central to fan expression but also indicative of the primacy of fandom in contemporary taste cultures.
Author: Kevin A. Morrison Publisher: Manchester University Press ISBN: 1526153068 Category : History Languages : en Pages : 483
Book Description
Starting with the premise that clothing is political and that analysing clothing can enhance understanding of political style, this collection explores the relationships among political theory, dress, and self-presentation during a period in which imperial and colonial empires assumed their modern form. Organised under three thematic clusters, the volume’s chapters range from an analysis of the uniforms worn by West India regiments stationed in the Caribbean to the smock frock donned by rural agricultural labourers, and from the self-presentations of members of parliament, political thinkers, and imperial administrators to the dress of characters and caricatures in novels, paintings, and political cartoon. With its interdisciplinary approach, the book will appeal to nineteenth-century cultural and social historians and literary critics as well as advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students whose research and teaching interests include gender, politics, material culture, and imperialism.
Author: Kevin L. Seligman Publisher: SIU Press ISBN: 9780809320066 Category : Crafts & Hobbies Languages : en Pages : 380
Book Description
Containing 2,729 entries, Kevin L. Seligman’s bibliography concentrates on books, manuals, journals, and catalogs covering a wide range of sartorial approaches over nearly five hundred years. After a historical overview, Seligman approaches his subject chronologically, listing items by century through 1799, then by decade. In this section, he deals with works on flat patterning, draping, grading, and tailoring techniques as well as on such related topics as accessories, armor, civil costumes, clerical costumes, dressmakers’ systems, fur, gloves, leather, military uniforms, and undergarments. Seligman then devotes a section to those American and English journals published for the professional tailor and dressmaker. Here, too, he includes the related areas of fur and undergarments. A section devoted to journal articles features selected articles from costume- and noncostumerelated professional journals and periodicals. The author breaks these articles down into three categories: American, English, and other. Seligman then devotes separate sections to other related areas, providing alphabetical listings of books and professional journals for costume and dance, dolls, folk and national dress, footwear, millinery, and wigmaking and hair. A section devoted to commercial pattern companies, periodicals, and catalogs is followed by an appendix covering pattern companies, publishers, and publications. In addition to full bibliographic notation, Seligman provides a library call number and library location if that information is available. The majority of the listings are annotated. Each listing is coded for identification and cross-referencing. An author index, a title index, a subject index, and a chronological index will guide readers to the material they want. Seligman’s historical review of the development of publications on the sartorial arts, professional journals, and the commercial paper pattern industry puts the bibliographical material into context. An appendix provides a cross-reference guide for research on American and English pattern companies, publishers, and publications. Given the size and scope of the bibliography, there is no other reference work even remotely like it.
Author: Douglas Hand Publisher: Ankerwycke ISBN: 9781634258968 Category : Business & Economics Languages : en Pages : 296
Book Description
"Know, first, who you are, and then adorn yourself accordingly." -- EpictetusWhen it comes to clothing, business norms are changing: "Casual Friday" has given way in many offices to the full-time casual workplace. With so many options you need advice. As presented in this to-the-point, clever, and creative guide by attorney Douglas A. Hand, "The Laws of Style" are just that--clear rules for sartorial presentation through the very practical viewpoint of the office reality of the service professional (lawyer, banker, accountant, consultant), and yet the Laws are so much more.Witty, bright, charming, and informative, The Laws of Style is at the same time a striking visual resource with more than 40 illustrations created by renowned fashion illustrator Rodrigo Saldana. In addition to the author's 54 "laws of style," the book includes short introductions to highlighted designers relevant to each Law. More than just a simple dress-for-success guide, author Hand's erudite, creative, elegant, and whimsical narrative style is a fitting tribute to the laws he has created to assist you in establishing and elevating your own style--both professional as well as personal.
Author: Francois Armanet Publisher: Rizzoli Publications ISBN: 2080202936 Category : Design Languages : en Pages : 0
Book Description
Striking photographs of 120 influential figures of the twentieth century highlight a singular sartorial detail that the stars wore first and that, as a result, redefined fashion. In a series of iconic portraits accompanied by insightful and sometimes dishy text, this volume examines the most influential stars of the twentieth century and the "killer detail" that made them stand out and for which they would forever be remembered. If what Stendhal called "the charming little flaw" is what inflames desire, then the killer detail is the harbinger of true elegance. It is a particular feature that catches the eye, encapsulates an attitude, or refines a style, distinguishing the wearer from the crowd. The Killer Detail is a veritable fashion show featuring writers, artists, performers, and models who all left their mark on the twentieth century as bellwethers of style: from Marlene Dietrich’s pantsuit to Kate Moss’s skinny jeans; from Liz Taylor’s leopard-print swimsuit to Jimi Hendrix’s military jacket; and from Thelonious Monk’s beret to Frank Sinatra’s fedora. These are the individuals who dared to invent new perspectives in fashion and adopt fresh trends that would be reinvented by others continually for years to come.
Author: Nicole D. Smith Publisher: University of Notre Dame Press ISBN: 9780268041373 Category : Literary Criticism Languages : en Pages : 0
Book Description
Sartorial Strategies establishes that writers of romances redirect the negative depictions of the courtly body found in clerical chronicles and penitential writings into positive images that convey virtue.
Author: Erin Griffey Publisher: Amsterdam University Press ISBN: 904853724X Category : Art Languages : en Pages : 337
Book Description
For women at the early modern courts, clothing and jewellery were essential elements in their political arsenal, enabling them to signal their dynastic value, to promote loyalty to their marital court and to advance political agendas. This is the first collection of essays to examine how elite women in early modern Europe marshalled clothing and jewellery for political ends. With essays encompassing women who traversed courts in Denmark, England, France, Germany, Habsburg Austria, Italy, Portugal, Spain and Sweden, the contributions cover a broad range of elite women from different courts and religious backgrounds as well as varying noble ranks.
Author: Hugo Jacomet Publisher: National Geographic Books ISBN: 0500293961 Category : Crafts & Hobbies Languages : en Pages : 0
Book Description
In a new compact edition, a luxurious celebration of the elegant craftsmanship behind the timeless French men’s fashion and lifestyle labels. Home of haute couture and the world’s leading fashion houses, Paris and its inhabitants represent sophistication and refinement to the rest of the world. Debonair Parisian men continue to participate in a centuries-long tradition of sartorial craftsmanship and quality. In its newly accessible compact edition, The Parisian Gentleman is like a dream shopping excursion to the leading men’s style-makers, from hidden ateliers and little- known studios to internationally renowned labels such as shirtmakers Charvet, shoemakers Berluti, and the recently revived trunk-makers Moynat. The stories behind each house, and the creative minds and artisans who give each brand its unique identity, bring the clothes alive, capturing an unceasing dedication to quality in an era overrun with new, mass-produced trends. Author Hugo Jacomet’s portraits of these often-inaccessible marques (or brands) are intimate and illuminating, thanks to his personal connections to many of the leading figures. His text is accompanied by beautifully shot photographs of the designers, studios, garments, and locations, the majority of which were taken exclusively for this book.
Author: Mikael Alm
Author: Mikael Alm
Author: Simon Crompton
Author: Elizabeth Affuso
Author: Kevin A. Morrison
Author: Kevin L. Seligman
Author: Douglas Hand
Author: Francois Armanet
Author: Nicole D. Smith
Author: Erin Griffey
Author: Hugo Jacomet