Author: James Thornton KirbyPublisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean waves
Languages : en
Pages : 352
Book Description
Propagation of Weakly-nonlinear Surface Water Waves in Regions with Varying Depth and Current
Author: James Thornton KirbyPublisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean waves
Languages : en
Pages : 352
Book Description
Propagation of Weakly-Nonlinear Surface Water Waves in Regions with Varying Depth and Current
Author: James Thornton Kirby (Jr)Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 344
Book Description
This report represents a study of the equations governing the propagation of weakly nonlinear waves in regions where currents exist and where the depth and current are allowed to vary. After deriving a velocity potential applicable to propagating surface waves according to the Stokes expansion, the Lagrangian governing wave motion in the propagation space is derived. A consistent perturbation scheme then leads to the equations governing the wave and current motion at each order in the Stokes series. After neglecting time dependence of the wave amplitude, parabolic equations governing the combined refraction and diffraction of Stokes waves of small amplitude are developed and used to calculate the wavefields for several representative cases illustrating the importance of nonlinear effects. The computational models are verified by comparison to laboratory data of wave amplitude for a wavefield focussed by a submerged shoal, and it is found that the nonlinear model accounts for the major discrepancies found between linear model results and the laboratory data. (Author).
Angular Spectrum Models for Propagation of Weakly Nonlinear Surface Gravity Waves in Water of Varying Depth
Author: Kyung Duck SuhPublisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean waves
Languages : en
Pages : 234
Book Description
Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms: Linear wave propagation
Author: Maarten W. DingemansPublisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9789810239947
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 508
Book Description
Scientific and Technical Aerospace Reports
Author: Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms (In 2 Parts)
Author: Maarten W DingemansPublisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9814506583
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 1015
Book Description
The primary objective of this book is to provide a review of techniques available for the problems of wave propagation in regions with uneven beds as they are encountered in coastal areas. The view taken is that the techniques should be useful for application in advisory practice. However, effort is put into a precise definition of the underlying physical principles, so that the validity of the methods used can be evaluated. Both linear and nonlinear wave propagation techniques are discussed. Because of its length, the book comes in two parts: Part 1 covers primarily linear wave propagation, and Part 2 covers nonlinear wave propagation.
Dispersive Shallow Water Waves
Author: Gayaz KhakimzyanovPublisher: Springer Nature
ISBN: 3030462676
Category : Mathematics
Languages : en
Pages : 296
Book Description
This monograph presents cutting-edge research on dispersive wave modelling, and the numerical methods used to simulate the propagation and generation of long surface water waves. Including both an overview of existing dispersive models, as well as recent breakthroughs, the authors maintain an ideal balance between theory and applications. From modelling tsunami waves to smaller scale coastal processes, this book will be an indispensable resource for those looking to be brought up-to-date in this active area of scientific research. Beginning with an introduction to various dispersive long wave models on the flat space, the authors establish a foundation on which readers can confidently approach more advanced mathematical models and numerical techniques. The first two chapters of the book cover modelling and numerical simulation over globally flat spaces, including adaptive moving grid methods along with the operator splitting approach, which was historically proposed at the Institute of Computational Technologies at Novosibirsk. Later chapters build on this to explore high-end mathematical modelling of the fluid flow over deformed and rotating spheres using the operator splitting approach. The appendices that follow further elaborate by providing valuable insight into long wave models based on the potential flow assumption, and modified intermediate weakly nonlinear weakly dispersive equations. Dispersive Shallow Water Waves will be a valuable resource for researchers studying theoretical or applied oceanography, nonlinear waves as well as those more broadly interested in free surface flow dynamics.
Ocean Engineering Science
Author: Bernard Le MéhautéPublisher: Harvard University Press
ISBN: 9780674017399
Category : Political Science
Languages : en
Pages : 1340
Book Description
Technical Report CERC
Author: Advances In Coastal And Ocean Engineering, Vol 7
Author: Philip L-f LiuPublisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9814491055
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 253
Book Description
This invaluable volume consists of five articles covering a wide range of topics in coastal oceanographic engineering. The reader can find an article discussing the modern bubble measurement techniques applied to field studies of bubble dynamics in coastal shallow water. A comprehensive review paper on nonlinear modulation of water waves provides readers with a new perspective on nonlinear processes in the coastal and ocean wave environment. For those who are interested in wave modeling, there are two review articles discussing various wave models, which can be used to study wave-structure interactions and harbor oscillations. Finally, readers who are interested in the subject of stratified flows can find an article presenting the detailed laboratory observations of lock-exchange flows.