Propagation of Shallow-water Waves Over Slowly Varying Depth and Currents PDF Download

Author: Sung Bum Yoon
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Water waves
Languages : en
Pages : 476

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Book Description

Author: Maarten W. Dingemans
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9789810239947
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 508

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Book Description

Author: Maarten W Dingemans
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9814506583
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 1015

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Book Description
The primary objective of this book is to provide a review of techniques available for the problems of wave propagation in regions with uneven beds as they are encountered in coastal areas. The view taken is that the techniques should be useful for application in advisory practice. However, effort is put into a precise definition of the underlying physical principles, so that the validity of the methods used can be evaluated. Both linear and nonlinear wave propagation techniques are discussed. Because of its length, the book comes in two parts: Part 1 covers primarily linear wave propagation, and Part 2 covers nonlinear wave propagation.

Author: James Thornton Kirby
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Ocean waves
Languages : en
Pages : 352

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Book Description

Author: Yoshimi Goda
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9814485292
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 1583

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Book Description
This book presents the experience of coastal and port engineering development, as well as coastal environmental problems, in Asian and Pacific countries. It also provides information and promotes technological progress and activities, international technical transfer and cooperation, and opportunities for engineers and researchers to maintain and improve scientific and technical competence. The subject areas are not limited to the classical topics of coastal engineering but are extended to related fields, including environments, marine ecology, coastal oceanography, fishery, etc.

Author: James Thornton Kirby (Jr)
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 344

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Book Description
This report represents a study of the equations governing the propagation of weakly nonlinear waves in regions where currents exist and where the depth and current are allowed to vary. After deriving a velocity potential applicable to propagating surface waves according to the Stokes expansion, the Lagrangian governing wave motion in the propagation space is derived. A consistent perturbation scheme then leads to the equations governing the wave and current motion at each order in the Stokes series. After neglecting time dependence of the wave amplitude, parabolic equations governing the combined refraction and diffraction of Stokes waves of small amplitude are developed and used to calculate the wavefields for several representative cases illustrating the importance of nonlinear effects. The computational models are verified by comparison to laboratory data of wave amplitude for a wavefield focussed by a submerged shoal, and it is found that the nonlinear model accounts for the major discrepancies found between linear model results and the laboratory data. (Author).

Author:
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Aeronautics
Languages : en
Pages : 1108

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Book Description

Author: G. Benassai
Publisher: WIT Press
ISBN: 1845640543
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 353

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Book Description
"Provides an integrated approach to coastal dynamics and shoreline protection, aided by the use of specific case studies" -- Back cover.

Author: Bernard Le Méhauté
Publisher: Harvard University Press
ISBN: 9780674017399
Category : Political Science
Languages : en
Pages : 1340

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Book Description

Author: James Thornton Kirby
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Diffraction
Languages : en
Pages : 102

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Book Description
In Part I of this report, a time dependent form of the reduced wave equation of Berkhoff is developed for the case of water waves propagating over a bed consisting of ripples superimposed on an otherwise slowly varying mean depth which satisfies the mild slope assumption. The ripples are assumed to have wavelengths on the order of the surface wave length but amplitudes which scale as a small parameter along with the bottom slope. The theory is verified by showing that it reduces to the case of plane waves propagating over a non-dimensional, infinite patch of sinusoidal ripples, studied recently by Davis and Heathershaw and Mei. We then study two cases of interest--formulation and use of the coupled parabolic equations for propagation over patches of arbitrary form in order to study wave reflection, and propagation of trapped waves along an infinite ripple patch. In the second part, we use the results of Part 1 to extend the results for weakly-nonlinear wave propagation to the case of partial reflection from bottoms with mild-sloping mean depth with superposed small amplitude undulations. Keywords include: Combined refraction-diffraction, Linear Surface Waves, Shallow and intermediate water depths, and Wave reflection.