Measurements and Computation of Wave Spectral Transformation at Island of Sylt, North Sea PDF Download
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Author: Hsiang Wang Publisher: ISBN: Category : Island of Sylt (North Sea) Languages : en Pages : 103
Book Description
Wave spectra were measured in the nearshore region extending approximately 900 m from the shore at the Island of Sylt (North Germany) in the North Sea. Seven gage stations were in operation for a period of two weeks in May, 1976 for data collection. The field results were presented and compared with numerical computations for energy transformation is shallow water, based on a method developed earlier for the same project. The numerical computation agreed well with the field data in the range of energy-containing wave components and low frequency components but failed in high frequency range. Based upon commonly-used wave instability criteria, an equilibrium energy spectral density function in water of finite depth has been developed. This function provides saturation conditions on spectral density for the complete spectrum. Comparison with field data is encouraging but, nevertheless, inconclusive. Combining field evidence and numerical results, an assessment has been made on the wave climate of the test area. It was demonstrated that the offshore bar located in the test area plays a double role as energy dissipator and trapper. It was also shown that waves from the N-W quadrant are more effective in generating longshore current and thus in longshore material transport. (Author).
Author: Hsiang Wang Publisher: ISBN: Category : Island of Sylt (North Sea) Languages : en Pages : 103
Book Description
Wave spectra were measured in the nearshore region extending approximately 900 m from the shore at the Island of Sylt (North Germany) in the North Sea. Seven gage stations were in operation for a period of two weeks in May, 1976 for data collection. The field results were presented and compared with numerical computations for energy transformation is shallow water, based on a method developed earlier for the same project. The numerical computation agreed well with the field data in the range of energy-containing wave components and low frequency components but failed in high frequency range. Based upon commonly-used wave instability criteria, an equilibrium energy spectral density function in water of finite depth has been developed. This function provides saturation conditions on spectral density for the complete spectrum. Comparison with field data is encouraging but, nevertheless, inconclusive. Combining field evidence and numerical results, an assessment has been made on the wave climate of the test area. It was demonstrated that the offshore bar located in the test area plays a double role as energy dissipator and trapper. It was also shown that waves from the N-W quadrant are more effective in generating longshore current and thus in longshore material transport. (Author).
Author: Madhav L. Khandekar Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media ISBN: 1461389526 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 223
Book Description
This monograph is an attempt to compile the present state of knowledge on ocean wave analysis and prediction. The emphasis of the monograph is on the development of ocean wave analysis and predic tion procedures and their utility for real-time operations and appli cations. Most of the material in the monograph is derived from journal articles, research reports and recent conference proceedings; some of the basic material is extracted from standard text books on physical oceanography and wind waves. Ocean wave analysis and prediction is becoming an important activity in the meteorological and oceanographic services of many countries. The present status of ocean wave prediction may be compar able to the status of numerical weather prediction of the mid-sixties and early seventies when a number of weather prediction models were developed for research purposes, many of which were later put into operational use by meteorological services of several countries. The increased emphasis on sea-state analysis and prediction has created a need for a ready reference material on various ocean wave analysis and modelling techniques and their utility. The present monograph is aimed at fulfilling this need. The monograph should prove useful to the ocean wave modelling community as well as to marine forecasters, coastal engineers and offshore technologists. The monograph could also be used for a senior undergraduate (or a first year graduate) level course in ocean wave modelling and marine meteorology.
Author: Hsiang Wang
Author: Hsiang Wang
Author: Hsiang Wang
Author: United States. National Technical Information Service
Author: Madhav L. Khandekar
Author: Y. Toba
Author: Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.)
Author: 
Author: 
Author: Edward F. Thompson
Author: Demetrio Domingo Serman