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Author: Joe William Johnson Publisher: Forgotten Books ISBN: 9780265807651 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 38
Book Description
Excerpt from Know Your Surf The waves which one encounters at sea and which form the breakers along beaches are almost always caused by winds. There. Are other types of waves in the ocean such as the waves that are formed by a ship moving in the ocean and the tidal waves which occur occasionally and often cause great damage. Tidal waves, technically known as seismic waves, are caused either directly or indirectly by earthquakes on the ocean bottom, and have nothing at all to do with the tides. Those caused by underwater earthquakes are rare, and the ones formed by ships are of little significance. The types that affect amphibious operations are the waves generated by wind blowing over the ocean surface. At first these waves are very small, like the ones formed on a pond; then they grow larger. In general, the greater the area Over which the wind blows, the longer it blows and the stronger the wind, the heavier is the sea (the higher and longer the waves). About the Publisher Forgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books. Find more at www.forgottenbooks.com This book is a reproduction of an important historical work. Forgotten Books uses state-of-the-art technology to digitally reconstruct the work, preserving the original format whilst repairing imperfections present in the aged copy. In rare cases, an imperfection in the original, such as a blemish or missing page, may be replicated in our edition. We do, however, repair the vast majority of imperfections successfully; any imperfections that remain are intentionally left to preserve the state of such historical works.
Author: Joe William Johnson Publisher: Forgotten Books ISBN: 9780265807651 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 38
Book Description
Excerpt from Know Your Surf The waves which one encounters at sea and which form the breakers along beaches are almost always caused by winds. There. Are other types of waves in the ocean such as the waves that are formed by a ship moving in the ocean and the tidal waves which occur occasionally and often cause great damage. Tidal waves, technically known as seismic waves, are caused either directly or indirectly by earthquakes on the ocean bottom, and have nothing at all to do with the tides. Those caused by underwater earthquakes are rare, and the ones formed by ships are of little significance. The types that affect amphibious operations are the waves generated by wind blowing over the ocean surface. At first these waves are very small, like the ones formed on a pond; then they grow larger. In general, the greater the area Over which the wind blows, the longer it blows and the stronger the wind, the heavier is the sea (the higher and longer the waves). About the Publisher Forgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books. Find more at www.forgottenbooks.com This book is a reproduction of an important historical work. Forgotten Books uses state-of-the-art technology to digitally reconstruct the work, preserving the original format whilst repairing imperfections present in the aged copy. In rare cases, an imperfection in the original, such as a blemish or missing page, may be replicated in our edition. We do, however, repair the vast majority of imperfections successfully; any imperfections that remain are intentionally left to preserve the state of such historical works.
Author: Gerry Lopez Publisher: Patagonia ISBN: 1938340256 Category : Sports & Recreation Languages : en Pages : 571
Book Description
Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.
Author: Ron Church Publisher: ISBN: Category : Photography Languages : en Pages : 136
Book Description
"Ron Church took the photographs presented here at two contests held at Huntington Beach, California in September 1963 and September 1964"--P. 10. Church's photographs document equally the surfers and the contest attendees.
Author: Chas Smith Publisher: Rare Bird Books ISBN: 9781644280331 Category : Social Science Languages : en Pages : 188
Book Description
From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.
Author: Saul Wright Publisher: Forgotten Books ISBN: 9780365173786 Category : Languages : en Pages : 228
Book Description
Excerpt from Surf: A Summer Pilgrimage When Thucydides suggested the return of our usual summer tramp the other day, i am free to confess the idea did not strike me with its usual force. Perhaps there were reasons for this absence of enthusiasm not altogether inconsistent with the popular idea of a tramp, and perhaps there were not. Iam not going to argue the point. To the individual who has not endured the agonies of an extra session of Congress it would be impossible to convey any idea of the supreme blessings Of rest. When one has been obliged for nearly four wretched months to report the goings-out and the, comings-in of a few hundred, more or less, of sweltering Congressmen who haven't known their own minds over night, and who have been known to change their firm opinions and convictions twenty-four times within as 'many consecutive hours; when one has been forced to listen to the. About the Publisher Forgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books. Find more at www.forgottenbooks.com This book is a reproduction of an important historical work. Forgotten Books uses state-of-the-art technology to digitally reconstruct the work, preserving the original format whilst repairing imperfections present in the aged copy. In rare cases, an imperfection in the original, such as a blemish or missing page, may be replicated in our edition. We do, however, repair the vast majority of imperfections successfully; any imperfections that remain are intentionally left to preserve the state of such historical works.
Author: Tom Vanderbilt Publisher: Vintage ISBN: 1524732176 Category : Self-Help Languages : en Pages : 320
Book Description
An insightful, joyful tour of the transformative powers of starting something new, no matter your age—from the bestselling author of Traffic and You May Also Like “Vanderbilt elegantly and persuasively tackles one of the most pernicious of the lies we tells ourselves—that the pleasures of learning are reserved for the young.” —Malcolm Gladwell, bestselling author of Outliers Why do so many of us stop learning new skills as adults? Are we afraid to be bad at something? Have we forgotten the sheer pleasure of beginning from the ground up? Inspired by his young daughter’s insatiable curiosity, Tom Vanderbilt embarks on a yearlong quest of learning—purely for the sake of learning. Rapturously singing Spice Girls songs in an amateur choir, losing games of chess to eight-year-olds, and dodging scorpions at a surf camp in Costa Rica, Vanderbilt tackles five main skills but learns so much more. Along the way, he interviews dozens of experts about the fascinating psychology and science behind the benefits of becoming an adult beginner and shows how anyone can get better at beginning again—and, more important, why they should take those first awkward steps. Funny, uplifting, and delightfully informative, Beginners is about how small acts of reinvention, at any age, can make life seem magical.
Author: Rukhsanna Guidroz Publisher: Penguin ISBN: 1984816209 Category : Juvenile Fiction Languages : en Pages : 417
Book Description
A middle grade novel in verse about Samira, an eleven-year-old Rohingya refugee living in Cox's Bazar, Bangladesh, who finds strength and sisterhood in a local surf club for girls. Samira thinks of her life as before and after: before the burning and violence in her village in Burma, when she and her best friend would play in the fields, and after, when her family was forced to flee. There's before the uncertain journey to Bangladesh by river, and after, when the river swallowed her nana and nani whole. And now, months after rebuilding a life in Bangladesh with her mama, baba, and brother, there's before Samira saw the Bengali surfer girls of Cox's Bazar, and after, when she decides she'll become one. Samira Surfs, written by Rukhsanna Guidroz with illustrations by Fahmida Azim, is a tender novel in verse about a young Rohingya girl's journey from isolation and persecution to sisterhood, and from fear to power.
Author: Allan Weisbecker Publisher: Penguin ISBN: 1585421774 Category : Biography & Autobiography Languages : en Pages : 353
Book Description
In 1996, Allan Weisbecker sold his home and his possessions, loaded his dog and surfboards into his truck, and set off in search of his long-time surfing companion, Patrick, who had vanished into the depths of Central America. In this rollicking memoir of his quest from Mexico to Costa Rica to unravel the circumstances of Patrick's disappearance, Weisbecker intimately describes the people he befriended, the bandits he evaded, the waves he caught and lost en route to finding his friend. In Search of Captain Zero is, according to Outside magazine, "A subtly affecting tale of friendship and duty. [It] deserves a spot on the microbus dashboard as a hell of a cautionary tale about finding paradise and smoking it away." In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road is a Booksense 76 Top Ten selection for September/October.
Author: Douglas B. Hall Publisher: Forgotten Books ISBN: 9780282170684 Category : Fiction Languages : en Pages : 402
Book Description
Excerpt from Sunshine and Surf: A Year's Wanderings in the South Seas Approximately. Although the following pages have been practically written by only one of the two travellers, yet the work has been published under the joint authorship of both, as the other gave many valuable hints and suggestions during the writing of the same. About the Publisher Forgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books. Find more at www.forgottenbooks.com This book is a reproduction of an important historical work. Forgotten Books uses state-of-the-art technology to digitally reconstruct the work, preserving the original format whilst repairing imperfections present in the aged copy. In rare cases, an imperfection in the original, such as a blemish or missing page, may be replicated in our edition. We do, however, repair the vast majority of imperfections successfully; any imperfections that remain are intentionally left to preserve the state of such historical works.
Author: Joe William Johnson
Author: Joe William Johnson
Author: Gerry Lopez
Author: Ron Church
Author: Chas Smith
Author: Saul Wright
Author: Tom Vanderbilt
Author: Rukhsanna Guidroz
Author: Roberto Diaz
Author: Allan Weisbecker
Author: Douglas B. Hall