Author: Kent K. Hathaway
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Coastal engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 96
Book Description
This report summarizes the present state of knowledge on infragravity wave motions (nominally 0.003 to 0.05 Hz). Theoretical and observational studies are presented. Most of the studies discussed herein have been published elsewhere, however a few studies discussed in chapter 4 are presented for the first time in this report Measurements of nearshore waves and currents have shown that a significant amount of the total energy can be contained in the infragravity band, and on highly dissipative beaches the infragravity wave variance often dominates over energy in the incident wave band(0.05 to 0.3 Hz). An 8-month data set of infragravity variance measured at 8-m-depth at the shoreline (runup) was compared with incident wave variance. Analysis of the 8-m-depth data showed that high mode edge waves account for about 50 percent of the total infragravity variance, and as high as 80 percent at times. Significant edge wave heights greater than 20 cm were observed at the 8-m depth. Infragravity wave variance was shown to have a higher correlation with swell variance (C = 0.95) than with sea variance (C = 0.61). This report was motivated, in part, by the need to determine the significance of infragravity waves on coastal erosion and structure damage and by the desire to improve coastal engineering solutions to problems associated with nearshore processes.
Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone
Author: Kent K. Hathaway
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Coastal engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 96
Book Description
This report summarizes the present state of knowledge on infragravity wave motions (nominally 0.003 to 0.05 Hz). Theoretical and observational studies are presented. Most of the studies discussed herein have been published elsewhere, however a few studies discussed in chapter 4 are presented for the first time in this report Measurements of nearshore waves and currents have shown that a significant amount of the total energy can be contained in the infragravity band, and on highly dissipative beaches the infragravity wave variance often dominates over energy in the incident wave band(0.05 to 0.3 Hz). An 8-month data set of infragravity variance measured at 8-m-depth at the shoreline (runup) was compared with incident wave variance. Analysis of the 8-m-depth data showed that high mode edge waves account for about 50 percent of the total infragravity variance, and as high as 80 percent at times. Significant edge wave heights greater than 20 cm were observed at the 8-m depth. Infragravity wave variance was shown to have a higher correlation with swell variance (C = 0.95) than with sea variance (C = 0.61). This report was motivated, in part, by the need to determine the significance of infragravity waves on coastal erosion and structure damage and by the desire to improve coastal engineering solutions to problems associated with nearshore processes.
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Coastal engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 96
Book Description
This report summarizes the present state of knowledge on infragravity wave motions (nominally 0.003 to 0.05 Hz). Theoretical and observational studies are presented. Most of the studies discussed herein have been published elsewhere, however a few studies discussed in chapter 4 are presented for the first time in this report Measurements of nearshore waves and currents have shown that a significant amount of the total energy can be contained in the infragravity band, and on highly dissipative beaches the infragravity wave variance often dominates over energy in the incident wave band(0.05 to 0.3 Hz). An 8-month data set of infragravity variance measured at 8-m-depth at the shoreline (runup) was compared with incident wave variance. Analysis of the 8-m-depth data showed that high mode edge waves account for about 50 percent of the total infragravity variance, and as high as 80 percent at times. Significant edge wave heights greater than 20 cm were observed at the 8-m depth. Infragravity wave variance was shown to have a higher correlation with swell variance (C = 0.95) than with sea variance (C = 0.61). This report was motivated, in part, by the need to determine the significance of infragravity waves on coastal erosion and structure damage and by the desire to improve coastal engineering solutions to problems associated with nearshore processes.
Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone
Author: Kent K. Hathaway
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Coastal engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 100
Book Description
This report summarizes the present state of knowledge on infragravity wave motions (nominally 0.003 to 0.05 Hz). Theoretical and observational studies are presented. Most of the studies discussed herein have been published elsewhere, however a few studies discussed in chapter 4 are presented for the first time in this report Measurements of nearshore waves and currents have shown that a significant amount of the total energy can be contained in the infragravity band, and on highly dissipative beaches the infragravity wave variance often dominates over energy in the incident wave band(0.05 to 0.3 Hz). An 8-month data set of infragravity variance measured at 8-m-depth at the shoreline (runup) was compared with incident wave variance. Analysis of the 8-m-depth data showed that high mode edge waves account for about 50 percent of the total infragravity variance, and as high as 80 percent at times. Significant edge wave heights greater than 20 cm were observed at the 8-m depth. Infragravity wave variance was shown to have a higher correlation with swell variance (C = 0.95) than with sea variance (C = 0.61). This report was motivated, in part, by the need to determine the significance of infragravity waves on coastal erosion and structure damage and by the desire to improve coastal engineering solutions to problems associated with nearshore processes.
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Coastal engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 100
Book Description
This report summarizes the present state of knowledge on infragravity wave motions (nominally 0.003 to 0.05 Hz). Theoretical and observational studies are presented. Most of the studies discussed herein have been published elsewhere, however a few studies discussed in chapter 4 are presented for the first time in this report Measurements of nearshore waves and currents have shown that a significant amount of the total energy can be contained in the infragravity band, and on highly dissipative beaches the infragravity wave variance often dominates over energy in the incident wave band(0.05 to 0.3 Hz). An 8-month data set of infragravity variance measured at 8-m-depth at the shoreline (runup) was compared with incident wave variance. Analysis of the 8-m-depth data showed that high mode edge waves account for about 50 percent of the total infragravity variance, and as high as 80 percent at times. Significant edge wave heights greater than 20 cm were observed at the 8-m depth. Infragravity wave variance was shown to have a higher correlation with swell variance (C = 0.95) than with sea variance (C = 0.61). This report was motivated, in part, by the need to determine the significance of infragravity waves on coastal erosion and structure damage and by the desire to improve coastal engineering solutions to problems associated with nearshore processes.
Shore Wave Modulation Due to Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone, with Applications
Author: Saad M. M. Abdelrahman
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Littoral drift
Languages : en
Pages : 140
Book Description
The omni-present low frequency wave motion (30-300 sec) contains a substantial fraction of the total wave energy inside the surf zone. A more complete description of nearshore wave processes considers incident short period waves superposed on, and interacting with, long standing waves. The wind waves are modulated in amplitude, wavenumber and direction due to relatively slowly varying depth changes caused by the long waves. The energy in the wind wave band is enhanced by side band growth at the sum and difference frequencies of short and long waves (order 15% at the shoreline). The modulation is identified in the analysis of field data as a positive correlation between the long waves and the wind wave envelope near the shoreline. Considering oblique incident waves, a steady longshore current showing a non-vanishing current at the shoreline is found as a result of the non-linear interaction between monochromatic incident and infragravity waves. An analytical solution describing the unsteadiness of the longshore current is developed. Keywords include: Infragravity, Longshore Current, Sediment transport, and Surf zone dynamics. (Theses).
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Littoral drift
Languages : en
Pages : 140
Book Description
The omni-present low frequency wave motion (30-300 sec) contains a substantial fraction of the total wave energy inside the surf zone. A more complete description of nearshore wave processes considers incident short period waves superposed on, and interacting with, long standing waves. The wind waves are modulated in amplitude, wavenumber and direction due to relatively slowly varying depth changes caused by the long waves. The energy in the wind wave band is enhanced by side band growth at the sum and difference frequencies of short and long waves (order 15% at the shoreline). The modulation is identified in the analysis of field data as a positive correlation between the long waves and the wind wave envelope near the shoreline. Considering oblique incident waves, a steady longshore current showing a non-vanishing current at the shoreline is found as a result of the non-linear interaction between monochromatic incident and infragravity waves. An analytical solution describing the unsteadiness of the longshore current is developed. Keywords include: Infragravity, Longshore Current, Sediment transport, and Surf zone dynamics. (Theses).
Coastal Dynamics '01
Author: Hans Hanson
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 1110
Book Description
This collection contains 109 papers presented at the Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics, held in Lund, Sweden, June 11-15, 2001.
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 1110
Book Description
This collection contains 109 papers presented at the Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics, held in Lund, Sweden, June 11-15, 2001.
Infragravity Velocity Profiles in the Surf-zone
Author: Uday Putrevu
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Gravity waves
Languages : en
Pages : 76
Book Description
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Gravity waves
Languages : en
Pages : 76
Book Description
Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology
Author: Robin Davidson-Arnott
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 1108424279
Category : Nature
Languages : en
Pages : 541
Book Description
Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material. Written for students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world.
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 1108424279
Category : Nature
Languages : en
Pages : 541
Book Description
Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material. Written for students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world.
Sandy Beach Morphodynamics
Author: Derek Jackson
Publisher: Elsevier
ISBN: 0081029276
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 814
Book Description
Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions. Includes chapters that are written by the world's leading experts, including the latest up-to-date thinking on a variety of subject areas Covers state-of-the-art techniques, bringing the reader the latest technologies/methods being used to understand beach systems Presents a clear-and-concise description of processes and techniques that enables a clear understanding of coastal processes
Publisher: Elsevier
ISBN: 0081029276
Category : Science
Languages : en
Pages : 814
Book Description
Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions. Includes chapters that are written by the world's leading experts, including the latest up-to-date thinking on a variety of subject areas Covers state-of-the-art techniques, bringing the reader the latest technologies/methods being used to understand beach systems Presents a clear-and-concise description of processes and techniques that enables a clear understanding of coastal processes
The CERCular
Author:
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Hydraulic engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 220
Book Description
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Hydraulic engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 220
Book Description
The Measurement and Interpretation of Infragravity, Shore Normal, Surf Zone Water Surface Elevation Data
Author: R. C. Nelson
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Coastal engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 88
Book Description
Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Coastal engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 88
Book Description
The Proceedings Of The Coastal Sediments 2015
Author: Jun Cheng
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 981468998X
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 3129
Book Description
This Proceedings contains over 260 papers on cutting-edge research presented at the eighth international Symposium on Coastal Sediment Processes, held May 11 - 15, 2015, in San Diego, California, USA. This technical specialty conference was devoted to promoting an interdisciplinary exchange of state-of-the-art knowledge among researchers in the fields of coastal engineering, geology, oceanography, and related disciplines, with the theme of Understanding and Working with Nature.Focusing on the physical aspects of the sediment processes in various coastal environments, this Proceedings provides findings from the latest research and newest engineering applications. Sessions covered a wide range of topics including barrier islands, beaches, climate and sea level, cohesive and noncohesive sediments, coastal bluffs, coastal marsh, dredged sediments, inlet and navigation channels, regional sediment management, river deltas, shore protection, tsunamis, and vegetation-sediment interaction. Several special sessions included: Relevant science for changing coastlines: A Tribute to Gary Griggs; North Atlantic Coast Comprehensive Study and post-super-storm Sandy work; long-term coastal evolution; barrier islands of Louisiana; sea-level rise and super storms in a warming world; predicting decadal coastal geomorphic evolution; and contrasting Pacific coastal behavior with El NiƱo Southern Oscillation (ENSO), are also featured.
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 981468998X
Category : Technology & Engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 3129
Book Description
This Proceedings contains over 260 papers on cutting-edge research presented at the eighth international Symposium on Coastal Sediment Processes, held May 11 - 15, 2015, in San Diego, California, USA. This technical specialty conference was devoted to promoting an interdisciplinary exchange of state-of-the-art knowledge among researchers in the fields of coastal engineering, geology, oceanography, and related disciplines, with the theme of Understanding and Working with Nature.Focusing on the physical aspects of the sediment processes in various coastal environments, this Proceedings provides findings from the latest research and newest engineering applications. Sessions covered a wide range of topics including barrier islands, beaches, climate and sea level, cohesive and noncohesive sediments, coastal bluffs, coastal marsh, dredged sediments, inlet and navigation channels, regional sediment management, river deltas, shore protection, tsunamis, and vegetation-sediment interaction. Several special sessions included: Relevant science for changing coastlines: A Tribute to Gary Griggs; North Atlantic Coast Comprehensive Study and post-super-storm Sandy work; long-term coastal evolution; barrier islands of Louisiana; sea-level rise and super storms in a warming world; predicting decadal coastal geomorphic evolution; and contrasting Pacific coastal behavior with El NiƱo Southern Oscillation (ENSO), are also featured.