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Author: S.R. Massel Publisher: Elsevier ISBN: 0080870864 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 349
Book Description
This book discusses selected theoretical topics of coastal hydrodynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal oceanography and coastal engineering. It is not intended as a handbook; the emphasis is placed on presentation of a number of basic problems, rather than giving detailed instructions for their application. The bulk of the material deals with surface waves. In the author's opinion there is still a strong need for a book on wave phenomena in the coastal waters, as general textbooks on sea surface dynamics focus most of their attention on the deep ocean. This book intends to fill this need by concentrating on the phenomena typical of the coastal zone.Based on lectures given at the Institute of Hydroengineering, Polish Academy of Sciences in Gdansk, the approach throughout is a combination of the theoretical and observational. A basic knowledge of ordinary and partial differential equations, as well as the statistical and spectral analysis of time series, is assumed. The reader should also be familiar with fundamental hydrodynamic concepts.The book comprises nine chapters. Governing equations and conservation laws are treated in Chapter 1, using the variational principles. The theory of regular surface waves is covered in Chapters 2 to 4. The nonlinear effect of wave train modulation and their breaking of beaches is examined in Chapter 5. Chapters 6 and 7 focus on the statistical and spectral treatment of waves induced by wind. Current generation and circulation pattern are the subject of Chapter 8, while sea level variations are examined in Chapter 9. References for further reading are given at the end of each chapter.
Author: S.R. Massel Publisher: Elsevier ISBN: 0080870864 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 349
Book Description
This book discusses selected theoretical topics of coastal hydrodynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal oceanography and coastal engineering. It is not intended as a handbook; the emphasis is placed on presentation of a number of basic problems, rather than giving detailed instructions for their application. The bulk of the material deals with surface waves. In the author's opinion there is still a strong need for a book on wave phenomena in the coastal waters, as general textbooks on sea surface dynamics focus most of their attention on the deep ocean. This book intends to fill this need by concentrating on the phenomena typical of the coastal zone.Based on lectures given at the Institute of Hydroengineering, Polish Academy of Sciences in Gdansk, the approach throughout is a combination of the theoretical and observational. A basic knowledge of ordinary and partial differential equations, as well as the statistical and spectral analysis of time series, is assumed. The reader should also be familiar with fundamental hydrodynamic concepts.The book comprises nine chapters. Governing equations and conservation laws are treated in Chapter 1, using the variational principles. The theory of regular surface waves is covered in Chapters 2 to 4. The nonlinear effect of wave train modulation and their breaking of beaches is examined in Chapter 5. Chapters 6 and 7 focus on the statistical and spectral treatment of waves induced by wind. Current generation and circulation pattern are the subject of Chapter 8, while sea level variations are examined in Chapter 9. References for further reading are given at the end of each chapter.
Author: Ib A. Svendsen Publisher: World Scientific ISBN: 9812561420 Category : Technology & Engineering Languages : en Pages : 748
Book Description
This book is intended as an introductory textbook for graduate students and as a reference book for engineers and scientists working in the field of coastal engineering. As such it gives a description of the theories for wave and nearshore hydrodynamics. It is meant to de-mystify the topics and hence starts at a fairly basic level. It requires knowledge of fluid mechanics equivalent to a first year graduate level. At the end of each topic, an attempt is made to give an overview of the present stage of the scientific development in that area with numerous references for further studies.
Author: R. Timman Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media ISBN: 940173657X Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 151
Book Description
In the spring of 1971, Reinier Tirnrnan visited the University of Delaware during which time he gave a series of lectures on water waves from which these notes grew. Those of us privi leged to be present during that time will never forget the experience. Rein Tirnrnan is not easily forgotten. His seemingly inexhaustible energy completely overwhelmed us. Who could forget the numbing effect of a succession of long wine filled evenings of lively conversation on literature, politics, education, you name it, followed early the next day by the appearance of the apparently totally refreshed red haired giant eager to discuss our mathematical problems with keen insight en remarkable understanding, ready to lecture on fluid mechanics or optimal control theory or a host of other subjects and ready to work into the evening until the cycle repeated. He thought faster, he knew more, he drank more and he slept less than any of us mortals and he literally wore us out. What a rare privilege indeed to have participated in this intellectual orgy. Tirnrnan's lively interest in almost every thing coupled with his buoyant enthusiasm and infectious op timism epitomized his approach to life. No delicate nibbling at the fringes, he wanted every morsel of every course. In these times of narrow specialization truly renaissance figures are, if not extinct, at least a highly endangered species. But Tirnrnan was one of that rare breed.
Author: S.R. Massel
Author: S.R. Massel
Author: Arnoldo Valle-Levinson
Author: Ib A. Svendsen
Author: Hans Hanson
Author: Robert G. Dean
Author: Ib A. Svendsen
Author: Sha Lou
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Author: 
Author: R. Timman