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Author: Paul Jobling Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing ISBN: 1350183237 Category : Business & Economics Languages : en Pages : 177
Book Description
How has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's 'The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there's also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing population with analysis of age and memory in work such as Magali Nougarède's Crossing the Line (2002), and pleasure and morality in fashion publicity since the 1990s for the likes of Calvin Klein, D&G and American Apparel.
Author: Fred Davis Publisher: University of Chicago Press ISBN: 022616795X Category : Social Science Languages : en Pages : 239
Book Description
What do our clothes say about who we are or who we think we are? How does the way we dress communicate messages about our identity? Is the desire to be "in fashion" universal, or is it unique to Western culture? How do fashions change? These are just a few of the intriguing questions Fred Davis sets out to answer in this provocative look at what we do with our clothes—and what they can do to us. Much of what we assume to be individual preference, Davis shows, really reflects deeper social and cultural forces. Ours is an ambivalent social world, characterized by tensions over gender roles, social status, and the expression of sexuality. Predicting what people will wear becomes a risky gamble when the link between private self and public persona can be so unstable.
Author: Maria Mackinney-Valentin Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing ISBN: 1474249116 Category : Design Languages : en Pages : 200
Book Description
We dress to communicate who we are, or who we would like others to think we are, telling seductive fashion narratives through our adornment. Yet, today, fashion has been democratized through high-low collaborations, social media and real-time fashion mediation, complicating the basic dynamic of identity displays, and creating tension between personal statements and social performances. Fashioning Identity explores how this tension is performed through fashion production and consumption,by examining a diverse series of case studies - from ninety-year old fashion icons to the paradoxical rebellion in 'normcore', and from soccer jerseys in Kenya to heavy metal band T-shirts in Europe. Through these cases, the role of time, gender, age memory, novelty, copying, the body and resistance are considered within the context of the contemporary fashion scene. Offering a fresh approach to the subject by readdressing Fred Davis' seminal concept of 'identity ambivalence' in Fashion, Culture and Identity (1992), Mackinney-Valentin argues that we are in an epoch of 'status ambivalence', in which fashioning one's own identity has become increasingly complicated.
Author: Diana Crane Publisher: University of Chicago Press ISBN: 0226924831 Category : Social Science Languages : en Pages : 353
Book Description
It has long been said that clothes make the man (or woman), but is it still true today? If so, how has the information clothes convey changed over the years? Using a wide range of historical and contemporary materials, Diana Crane demonstrates how the social significance of clothing has been transformed. Crane compares nineteenth-century societies—France and the United States—where social class was the most salient aspect of social identity signified in clothing with late twentieth-century America, where lifestyle, gender, sexual orientation, age, and ethnicity are more meaningful to individuals in constructing their wardrobes. Today, clothes worn at work signify social class, but leisure clothes convey meanings ranging from trite to political. In today's multicode societies, clothes inhibit as well as facilitate communication between highly fragmented social groups. Crane extends her comparison by showing how nineteenth-century French designers created fashions that suited lifestyles of Paris elites but that were also widely adopted outside France. By contrast, today's designers operate in a global marketplace, shaped by television, film, and popular music. No longer confined to elites, trendsetters are drawn from many social groups, and most trends have short trajectories. To assess the impact of fashion on women, Crane uses voices of college-aged and middle-aged women who took part in focus groups. These discussions yield fascinating information about women's perceptions of female identity and sexuality in the fashion industry. An absorbing work, Fashion and Its Social Agendas stands out as a critical study of gender, fashion, and consumer culture. "Why do people dress the way they do? How does clothing contribute to a person's identity as a man or woman, as a white-collar professional or blue-collar worker, as a preppie, yuppie, or nerd? How is it that dress no longer denotes social class so much as lifestyle? . . . Intelligent and informative, [this] book proposes thoughtful answers to some of these questions."-Library Journal
Author: Kyunghee Pyun Publisher: Springer ISBN: 3319971999 Category : Social Science Languages : en Pages : 414
Book Description
This edited volume on radical dress reforms in East Asia takes a fresh look at the symbols and languages of modernity in dress and body. Dress reform movements around the turn of the twentieth century in the region have received little critical attention as a multicultural discourse of labor, body, gender identity, colonialism, and government authority. With contributions by leading experts of costume/textile history of China, Korea, and Japan, this book presents up-to-date scholarship using diverse methodologies in costume history, history of consumption, and international trade. Thematically organized into sections exploring the garments and uniforms, accessories, fabrics, and fashion styles of Asia, this edited volume offers case studies for students and scholars in an ever-expanding field of material culture including, but not limited to, economic history, visual culture, art history, history of journalism, and popular culture. Fashion, Identity, and Power in Modern Asia stimulates further research on the impact of modernity and imperialism in neglected areas such as military uniform, school uniform, women’s accessories, hairstyles, and textile trade.
Author: Lucy Orta Publisher: Damiani Limited ISBN: 9788862081627 Category : Design Languages : en Pages : 0
Book Description
"Reflects upon the relationship between our physical covering and constructed personal environments, our individual and social identities and the contexts in which we live. It also looks at the role of clothing in cultural and personal stories through the work of Grayson Perry, Marie-Ange Guilleminot, Helen Storey and Claudia Losi. Issues of belonging and nationality, displacement and political and social confrontation are addressed by Yinka Shonibare MBE, Alexander McQueen, Sharif Waked, Alicia Framis, Meschac Gaba, Dai Rees, Yohji Yamamoto and Acconci Studio. Meanwhile, the importance of performance in the presentation of fashion and clothing, highlighting the roles that we play in our daily life, are explored through the work of Marina Abramović, Hussein Chalayan, Yoko Ono, Gillian Wearing RA and Andreas Gursky, amongst others"-- Back cover.
Author: Paul Jobling Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing ISBN: 1350183237 Category : Business & Economics Languages : en Pages : 177
Book Description
How has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's 'The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there's also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing population with analysis of age and memory in work such as Magali Nougarède's Crossing the Line (2002), and pleasure and morality in fashion publicity since the 1990s for the likes of Calvin Klein, D&G and American Apparel.
Author: Publisher: BRILL ISBN: 9004446591 Category : Social Science Languages : en Pages : 391
Book Description
For the international cast of contributors to this volume being “in fashion” is about self-presentation; defining how fashion is presented in the visual, written, and performing arts; and about design, craft manufacturing, packaging, marketing, and archives.
Author: Fred Davis Publisher: University of Chicago Press ISBN: 9780226138091 Category : Art Languages : en Pages : 246
Book Description
Drawing on interviews with designers and fashion editors, Davis shows, in this provocative look at what we do with our clothes, how our ambivalent world reveals itself through fashion. He sets out to answer questions such as 'what do our clothes say about who we are or who we think we are?', and 'how does the way we dress communicate messages about our identities?', and demonstrates that much of what we assume to be individual preference really reflects deeper social and cultural forces, characterised by tensions over gender roles, social status and the expression of sexuality.
Author: Christopher Stroud Publisher: Multilingual Matters ISBN: 1847695981 Category : Language Arts & Disciplines Languages : en Pages : 252
Book Description
Style, Identity and Literacy: English in Singapore is a qualitative study of the literacy practices of a group of Singaporean adolescents, relating their patterns of interaction – both inside and outside the classroom – to the different levels of social organization in Singaporean society (home, peer group and school). Combining field data gathered through a series of detailed interviews with available classroom observations, the study focuses on six adolescents from different ethnic and social backgrounds as they negotiate the learning of English against the backdrop of multilingual Singapore. This book provides social explanations for the difficulties and challenges these adolescents face by drawing on current developments in sociolinguistics, literacy studies, English language teaching and language policy.
Author: Emily Priscott Publisher: Vernon Press ISBN: 164889707X Category : Social Science Languages : en Pages : 191
Book Description
'Fashioning the Self: Identity and Style in British Culture' offers an eclectic approach to contemporary fashion studies. Taking a broad definition of British culture, this collection of essays explores the significance of style to issues such as colonialism, race, gender and class, embracing topics as diverse as eighteenth-century portraiture, literary dress culture and Edwardian working-class glamour. Examining the emblematic power of garments themselves and the context in which they are styled, this work interrogates the ways that personal style can itself decontextualize garments to radically reframe their meanings. Using an intentionally eclectic range of subjects from an interdisciplinary perspective, this collection builds on the work of theorists such as Aileen Ribeiro, Vika Martina Plock, Cheryl Buckley and Hilary Fawcett, to examine the social significance of personal style, while also highlighting the diversity of British culture itself.
Author: Paul Jobling
Author: Fred Davis
Author: Maria Mackinney-Valentin
Author: Diana Crane
Author: Kyunghee Pyun
Author: Lucy Orta
Author: Paul Jobling
Author: 
Author: Fred Davis
Author: Christopher Stroud
Author: Emily Priscott