Author: Michael Jeffrey BriggsPublisher:
ISBN:
Category : Frequency spectra
Languages : en
Pages : 196
Book Description
Directional Spectral Wave Transformation in the Nearshore Region
Author: Michael Jeffrey BriggsPublisher:
ISBN:
Category : Frequency spectra
Languages : en
Pages : 196
Book Description
Wave Transformation Over a Generalized Beach. Volume 1. Main Text and Appendix A.
Author: Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages : 120
Book Description
A three dimensional, physical model study of the effects of wave directionality on wave transformation in the nearshore region was recently completed in the directional spectral wave basin. The model consisted of a 1:30 slope beach with plane-parallel contours, similar to the Torrey Pines Beach in southern California. Irregular waves, typical of unimodal and bimodal unidirectional and directional spectra, were created and tested. An array of 20 capacitance wave gages was used to measure surface wave elevations. This array consisted of offshore and nearshore, high-resolution linear arrays to quantify directional distributions and a cross-shore gage array along the center line to study wave transformation. Results are compared with two dimensional flume test data of similar unidirectional waves and will be used to improve several existing numerical models. The goal of this research is to provide more realistic estimates of nearshore conditions by incorporating the effects of directional distributions in numerical models.
Directional Spectral Wave Transformation in the Nearshore Region
Author: Michael Jeffrey BriggsPublisher:
ISBN:
Category : Frequency spectra
Languages : en
Pages : 544
Book Description
Technical Report CERC
Author: Wave Transformation Over a Generalized Beach
Author: Michael J. BriggsPublisher:
ISBN:
Category : Beach erosion
Languages : en
Pages : 128
Book Description
Simulation of Nearshore Directional Waves and Depth-averaged Currents
Author: Brian K. HausExamining the Effects of Directional Wave Spectra on a Nearshore Wave Model
Author: Publisher:
ISBN:
Category :
Languages : en
Pages :
Book Description
Wave models are an integral part of coastal engineering due to their ability to quantify information that is either unobtainable or unavailable. However, these models rely heavily on the input of a directional wave spectrum that describes the variation of energy with frequency and direction. This study investigated how five methods for computing the directional wave spectrum perform within the nearshore spectral wave model, STWAVE. The results of the five experimental runs showed that overall, the greatest differences between spectra were observed in the significant wave height parameter. The mean wave direction showed greater differences at the offshore model domain boundary and lesser differences as the wave enters the nearshore; and the peak period had fewer differences at the boundary, but at the nearshore the differences were dependent upon the presence of wind forcing. Winds had a significant impact on observed differences between the spectra in the domain by dominating the wave field variation.
The CERCular
Author: Publisher:
ISBN:
Category : Hydraulic engineering
Languages : en
Pages : 220
Book Description
Measurements and Computation of Wave Spectral Transformation at Island of Sylt, North Sea
Author: Hsiang WangPublisher:
ISBN:
Category : Island of Sylt (North Sea)
Languages : en
Pages : 103
Book Description
Wave spectra were measured in the nearshore region extending approximately 900 m from the shore at the Island of Sylt (North Germany) in the North Sea. Seven gage stations were in operation for a period of two weeks in May, 1976 for data collection. The field results were presented and compared with numerical computations for energy transformation is shallow water, based on a method developed earlier for the same project. The numerical computation agreed well with the field data in the range of energy-containing wave components and low frequency components but failed in high frequency range. Based upon commonly-used wave instability criteria, an equilibrium energy spectral density function in water of finite depth has been developed. This function provides saturation conditions on spectral density for the complete spectrum. Comparison with field data is encouraging but, nevertheless, inconclusive. Combining field evidence and numerical results, an assessment has been made on the wave climate of the test area. It was demonstrated that the offshore bar located in the test area plays a double role as energy dissipator and trapper. It was also shown that waves from the N-W quadrant are more effective in generating longshore current and thus in longshore material transport. (Author).
Author: Hatcem Tuba Özkan