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Author: Dominic James Publisher: ISBN: 9781851245598 Category : Languages : en Pages : 248
Book Description
Dressy men as a type of celebrity have played a distinctive part in the cultural - and even in the political - life of Britain over several centuries. But unlike the twenty-first-century hipster, the dandies of the British past provoked intense degrees of fascination and horror in their homeland and played an important role in British society from the seventeenth to the twentieth century. This book - illustrated with contemporary prints, portraits and caricatures - explores that social and cultural history through a focus on the macaroni, the dandy and the aesthete. The first was noted for his flamboyance, the second for his austere perfectionism and the third for his sexual perversity. All were highly controversial in their time, pioneering new ways of displaying and performing gender, as demonstrated by the impact of key figures such as Lord Hervey, George 'Beau' Brummell and Oscar Wilde. This groundbreaking study tells the scandalous story of fashionable men and their clothes as a reflection of changing attitudes not only to style but also to gender and sexuality.
Author: Dominic James Publisher: ISBN: 9781851245598 Category : Languages : en Pages : 248
Book Description
Dressy men as a type of celebrity have played a distinctive part in the cultural - and even in the political - life of Britain over several centuries. But unlike the twenty-first-century hipster, the dandies of the British past provoked intense degrees of fascination and horror in their homeland and played an important role in British society from the seventeenth to the twentieth century. This book - illustrated with contemporary prints, portraits and caricatures - explores that social and cultural history through a focus on the macaroni, the dandy and the aesthete. The first was noted for his flamboyance, the second for his austere perfectionism and the third for his sexual perversity. All were highly controversial in their time, pioneering new ways of displaying and performing gender, as demonstrated by the impact of key figures such as Lord Hervey, George 'Beau' Brummell and Oscar Wilde. This groundbreaking study tells the scandalous story of fashionable men and their clothes as a reflection of changing attitudes not only to style but also to gender and sexuality.
Author: Stan Hawkins Publisher: Routledge ISBN: 1351545868 Category : Music Languages : en Pages : 245
Book Description
Who are pop dandies? Why are stars like David Bowie, Jarvis Cocker, Pete Doherty and Robbie Williams so dandified? Taking up a wide range of British pop stars, Hawkins seeks to find out why so many have cast themselves in roles that often take style to absurd extremes. In this study, male pop artists are mapped against a cultural and historical background through a genealogy of personalities, such as Oscar Wilde, W.H. Auden, Andy Warhol, No Coward, Derek Jarmen, David Beckham and countless others. A critical analysis of issues and approaches to musical performance through masculinity becomes the focal point of this fascinating study. Ranging from the sixties to beyond the twentieth century, The British Pop Dandy considers the construction of the male pop icon through the spectacle of videos, live concerts and films. Why do we derive pleasure from the performing body, and how is entertainment linked to categories of gender and sexuality? The author insists that pop performances can be understood through human characteristics that relate to the particulars of dandyism, camp and glamour, and this he theorizes through the work of Charles Baudelaire. One of the political objectives of the dandy is to liberate himself through a denial of the structures that assume fixed identity. Not least, it is acts of queering in pop music that characterize entire generations of male artists in the UK. Setting out to discover what distinguishes the British pop dandy, Hawkins considers the role of music and performance in the articulation of hyperbolic display. It is argued that the recorded voice is a construction that idealizes self-representation, and absorbs the listener's attention. Particularly, camp address in singing practice is taken up in conjunction with a discussion of intimacy, which forms part of the strategy of the performer. In a range of songs and videos selected for music analysis, Hawkins points to the uniqueness of the voice as it expresses a transgressive quali
Author: Susan Fillin-Yeh Publisher: NYU Press ISBN: 0814726968 Category : Design Languages : en Pages : 303
Book Description
Dandies: Fashion and Finesse in Art and Culture considers the visual languages, politics, and poetics of personal appearance. Dandyism has been most closely associated with influential caucasian Western men-about-town, epitomized by the 19th century style-setting of Oscar Wilde and by Tom Wolfe's white suits. The essays collected here, however, examine the spectacle and workings of dandyism to reveal that these were not the only dandies. On the contrary, art historians, literary and cultural historians, and anthropologists identify unrecognized dandies flourishing among early 19th century Native Americans, in Soviet Latvia, in Africa, throughout the African-American diaspora, among women, and in the art world. Moving beyond historical and fictional accounts of dandies, this volume juxtaposes theoretical models with evocative images and descriptions of clothing in order to link sartorial self-construction with artistic, social, and political self-invention. Taking into consideration the vast changes in thinking about identity in the academy, Dandies provides a compelling study of dandyism's destabilizing aesthetic enterprise. Contributors: Jennifer Blessing, Susan Fillin-Yeh, Rhonda Garelick, Joe Lucchesi, Kim Miller, Robert E. Moore, Richard J. Powell, Carter Ratcliffe, and Mark Allen Svede.
Author: Shaun Cole Publisher: Yale University Press ISBN: 030025413X Category : Art Languages : en Pages : 169
Book Description
Celebrating 250 years of male self-expression, investigating the portraiture and wardrobe of the fashionable British man The style of the dandy is elegant but bold--dedicated to the perfection of taste. This meticulously choreographed look has a vibrant history; the legacy of Beau Brummell, the original dandy of Regency England, can be traced in the clothing of urban dandies today. Dandy Style celebrates 250 years of male self-expression, investigating the portraiture and wardrobe of the fashionable British man. Combining fashion, art, and photography, the historic and the contemporary, the provocative and the respectable, it considers key themes in the development of male style and identity, including elegance, uniformity, and spectacle. Various types of dandy are represented by iconic figures such as Oscar Wilde, Edward VIII as Prince of Wales, and Gilbert & George. They appear alongside the seminal designs of Vivienne Westwood, Ozwald Boateng, and Alexander McQueen; and portraits by Thomas Gainsborough and David Hockney.
Author: Olga Vainshtein Publisher: Anthem Press ISBN: 1839984465 Category : Design Languages : en Pages : 252
Book Description
The book explores the dandy as a cultural type across Europe and Russia from the eighteenth century through the present day. Olga Vainshtein offers a unique view on dandyism as a cultural tradition, based not merely on fashionable attire, but also as a particular lifestyle with specific standards of behaviour, bodily practices and conceptual approaches to dress. The dandy is described as the prototypical hero of the modern cult of celebrities. From clubbing manners, the techniques of virtual aristocratism, urban flâneurs and the correct way to examine people, Vainshtein walks us through optical duels and the techniques of visual assessment at social gatherings. Readers will learn about strategies of subversive behaviour found in practical jokes, the fine art of noble scandal, dry wit, bare-faced impudence and mocking politeness. Looking at dandyism as a nineteenth-century literary movement, Vainshtein examines representation of dandies in fiction. Finally, a large section is devoted to Russian and Soviet dandyism and the dandies of today.
Author: Nigel Rodgers Publisher: Bene Factum Publishing ISBN: 190307147X Category : History Languages : en Pages : 249
Book Description
A look at the phenomenon of the dandy from Regency England to the contemporary Congolese Sapeurs, with stops at Wodehouse, Wilde, Grant, and more The dandy is not just an elaborately or even well-dressed man, nor is he an exclusively English phenomenon. He is something far more universal and intriguing, and this study explores his cultural significance. It starts with Beau Brummell, acknowledged as the very first dandy, a man whose ancestors had been servants, yet who invented a new paradigm of courtesy, wit, independence, and elegance to lord over the aristocrats of England. Brummell died in exile, forgotten and impoverished—the best dandies often die in debt. But his image lived on, to haunt and inspire generations around the world, from the boulevards of Paris and St. Petersburg in the 1830s to the studios of Hollywood a century later. Byron, Disraeli, Bulwer, Pushkin, Chopin, Delacroix, Balzac, Baudelaire, Wilde, Proust, Boni de Castellane, Hugo von Hofmannstahl, Beerbohm, Noël Coward, Cary Grant, Fred Astaire, Vladimir Nabokov, Ortega y Gassett, Mikhael Bulgakov, Evelyn Waugh, Scott Fitzgerald, Tom Wolfe, Nick Foulkes—all were bedazzled by the image of the dandy.
Author: Betty-Anne Stenmark Publisher: Fox Chapel Publishing ISBN: 1621870588 Category : Pets Languages : en Pages : 361
Book Description
Unmistakably unique in his crisp coat colored in mustard or pepper, the Dandie Dinmont Terrier cuts a silhouette without compare in dogdom. His large, distinctive head crowned with a silky topknot; his full, round eyes, revealing intelligence and sensitivity; and his long, low, shapely body, and short legs add to the breed’s unmistakable distinction and purity. Although the Dandie is counted among the gamest of working terriers, the breed’s gentleman-like ways, independent spirit, and special brand of dignified affection recommend him as a charming companion dog for all experienced dog owners. Author Betty-Anne Stenmark, one of the doyennes of the breed in the United States, a highly regarded breeder and judge, begins this Comprehensive Owner’s Guide with a detailed chapter on the breed’s origins in England and the United States, featuring many historical photographs of important dogs. As only a lifelong Dandie lover can do, the author conveys the ineffable spirit and temperament of her favorite dog in an enjoyable chapter on the breed’s characteristics, which all newcomers to the breed will find enlightening and entertaining. The AKC breed standard is presented alongside the author’s expert analysis, making this book indispensable to all serious Dandie students. New owners will welcome the well-prepared chapter on finding a reputable breeder and selecting a healthy, sound puppy. Chapters on puppy-proofing the home and yard, purchasing the right supplies for the puppy as well as house-training, feeding, and obedience are illustrated with photographs of handsome adults and puppies. Guest author Emma Greenway, a Dandie expert and breeder from down under, provides two excellent sections on the proper grooming of the Dandie and training the puppy for show. In all, there are over 135 full-color photographs in this useful and reliable volume.. The chapter on healthcare provides up-to-date detailed information on selecting a qualified veterinarian, vaccinations, preventing and dealing with parasites, infectious diseases, and more. Sidebars throughout the text offer helpful hints, covering topics as diverse as historical dogs, breeders, or kennels, toxic plants, first aid, crate training, carsickness, fussy eaters, and parasite control. Fully indexed.
Author: James Eli Adams Publisher: Cornell University Press ISBN: 1501720430 Category : Literary Criticism Languages : en Pages : 264
Book Description
A Choice "Outstanding Academic Book for 1996"While drawing on work in feminism, queer theory, and cultural history, Dandies and Desert Saints challenges scholars to rethink simplistic notions of Victorian manhood. James Eli Adams examines masculine identity in Victorian literature from Thomas Carlyle through Oscar Wilde, analyzing authors who identify the age's ideal of manhood as the power of self-discipline. What distinguishes Adams's book from others in the recent explosion of interest in masculinity is his refusal to approach masculinity primarily in terms of "patriarchy" or "phallogocentrism" or within the binary of homosexualities and heterosexualities.
Author: Kirsten MacLeod Publisher: Springer ISBN: 0230504000 Category : Literary Criticism Languages : en Pages : 232
Book Description
Fictions of British Decadence is a fresh account of the emergence, development and legacy of fiction written in the era of Oscar Wilde. It examines a broad range of texts by a diverse array of Decadent writers, from familiar figures such as Ernest Dowson and John Davidson to lesser-known innovators such as Arthur Machen and M.P. Shiel.
Author: Frederick Burwick Publisher: John Wiley & Sons ISBN: 0470659831 Category : Literary Criticism Languages : en Pages : 403
Book Description
Compiles 70 of the key terms most frequently used or discussed by authors of the Romantic period – and most often deliberated by critics and literary historians of the era. Offers an indispensable resource for understanding the ideas and differing interpretations that shaped the Romantic period Includes keywords spanning Abolition and Allegory, through Madness and Monsters, to Vision and Vampires Features in-depth descriptions of each entry's direct meaning and connotations in relation to its usage and thought in literary culture Provides deep insights into the political, social, and cultural climate of one of the most expressive periods of Western literary history Draws on the author’s extensive experience of teaching, lecturing, and writing on Romantic literature
Author: Dominic James
Author: Dominic James
Author: Stan Hawkins
Author: Susan Fillin-Yeh
Author: Shaun Cole
Author: Olga Vainshtein
Author: Nigel Rodgers
Author: Betty-Anne Stenmark
Author: James Eli Adams
Author: Kirsten MacLeod
Author: Frederick Burwick